Lawn scarification

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My lawn has accrued quite a layer of thatch. Everything I've read suggests that scarification should only be carried out in Autumn, but i'm tempted to have a go now.

Just before then next rains are due I intend to scarify, apply a fertiliser then top dress.

Any reason why I shouldn't go for it? Cheers.
 
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No Problem, go for it, I have just done mine a few days ago, so will wait a

few days before feeding and reseeding a few bare patches, hope you have

got an electric rake as its quite a job by hand.
 
Thanks, I'm going to get to work this weekend. Got a puny black&decker scarifier but it will be adequate.
 
before feeding and reseeding a few bare patches

what are you using? I've just applied lawnsand and am wating for the moss to finish blackening up. I also intend feeding and reseeding, but am not sure what to go for. Went to the garden centre and was overwhelmed by the choice. Any recommendations anyone?
 
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Funnily enough I received this e-mail from Rolawn today on this very subject. It's a few years now since I scarified my lawn but it is well worth the effort.

Stan

"Scarification is a very important operation. In spring (and autumn for that matter) scarification is best combined with other operations, like top dressing, seeding and applying fertiliser. However, where scarification is combined with other planned work, we must stress that it should be completed first. We have had discussions with lawn owners who have fertilised and top-dressed and then remembered that they should also scarify. If this happens, it will be better to leave any intensive scarification until the autumn. That said a little light scarification could be beneficial during good growing conditions in the summer, once the effect of the other spring operations have borne fruit.


Assuming that the work has been planned well and the lawn is scarified prior to any other spring operations (excluding mowing, which should continue on a regular basis both before and after scarification) effective scarification will improve the quality of the lawn. It will also improve the effectiveness of the other operations that follow. In this regard, if you have the energy, you do not have to wait to do any other planned work once the scarification is complete. Seeding and top dressing can follow straight away!

Scarification is carried out to remove organic matter from around the base of the grass plants and tidy up any straggly lateral growth. It removes material, probably in the form of thatch or moss that will otherwise prevent good dense grass growth. If you do not scarify, debris will build up and lead to other problems. Thatchy and mossy lawns will not be very wear or drought tolerant. Once the space has been created around the base of the grass plants, the trick is to encourage the grass to fill the space. There are two important points to make here. Firstly, do not scarify too early in the spring. It is important that the grass is growing fairly well and that any space created is filled by desirable lawn grasses. If growth is slow, there is a higher risk that the gaps will be filled with unwanted weeds or weed-grasses. Secondly, encourage grass growth after scarification. This is where other operations like fertilisation will be beneficial.

Finally, be careful not to over do it. Hand scarification is hard work. If you have a large lawn, it will be better to use a machine which are available for hire".
 
"what are you using? I've just applied lawnsand and am wating for the moss to finish blackening up. I also intend feeding and reseeding, but am not sure what to go for. Went to the garden centre and was overwhelmed by the choice. Any recommendations anyone?"

Any brand of lawnfood that is rich in nitrogen is specifically intended for spring/summer use. A good supplier will not have autumn feed on sale at the moment. However, if they do and it is on special offer then by all means buy it and use it when the time comes. As a general rule the more nitrogen (nitrogen is used for green leaf growth) content the quicker/greener the grass will become, providing it is washed down to the roots by rain or sprinkler. The nitrogen content will normally be about 14%. NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) will be stated on the back and be something like 14 2 4. So any brand showing similar figures will be suitable to use on your lawn now. For autumn feed the nitrogen content is reduced.

Stan
 
thanks, great info.

How about seeds? I have a number of bare patches are thinnnig areas that cold do with filling (other wise they will be full of weeds.) Can I just thorow seeds onto the bare areas or must I dig it up and the "plant" the grass seeds.
 
What you should do is relieve any compaction in the patches with a garden fork. Stick the fork in about 4 or 5 inches and wiggle it from side to side just to loosen it up. Get rid of any big stones or dead matter. You can then use a rake until you have a nice crumbly surface. Water it and drop in some seed. Do not allow the patch to dry out. Alternatively, sieve some topsoil from your borders and use that, or, if you don’t have any borders, buy a bag of topsoil. When you water after the seed is laid remember to use a very fine mist as otherwise you’ll just wash the seeds away. As this time of year the seeds should germinate in about 10 days or so. Any hard wearing seed, with ryegrass, should do the trick.

Stan
 
I have always been advised that using the "wiggle a fork" trick only serves to further compact the soil around the holes that you have made. It is far better to use a tool that removes cores/plugs from your lawn to relieve soil compaction.
 
Hollow tine aerators (sp?) are by far the best but the fork trick is better than nothing
 

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