Levelling sloping floorboards. Ply and cement???

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hi
I've posted on here before about options of replacing my ground floor kitchen floor to make it feel more solid. It's an early Victorian terrace house with traditional floorboards. Ideally I'd like to replace the ground floor with solid cement flooring but this seems to be major £££ and it seems a shame to rip the floorboards out when they have done a good job for the last 170 years

My main issue is in the kitchen the floor is quite uneven and slopes off towards the wall so the plinth under my kitchen cupboards is a tight fit one end but has a good 2 inch gap the other..

Would a solution be to cover the floorboards with some 6mm ply, then pour self levelling concrete to make a nice even surface? Any other ideas welcome.
 
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Ideally, you want to lift the floorboards, apply furring strips to the joists from 2"-0" and replace the boards on top.

You can go the levelling compound route but 2" is a lot to make up and it will not adhere properly on top of the old boards.
 
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As you can see it suddenly drops off
 

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If all you're niggled about is the plinth then buy a length of 6" plinth and scribe it to follow the floor!
 
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If all you're niggled about is the plinth then buy a length of 6" plinth and scribe it to follow the floor!

To be honest I'd just like to have a level solid feeling floor. We plan on getting a new kitchen fitted next year so would like a nice flat surface for it to go on rather than feeling like we have had a few too many to drink when we walk towards the sink!
 
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Then I would rip the floorboards up and furr the joists before refitting the boards.
 
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Then I would rip the floorboards up and furr the joists before refitting the boards.

Sounds like a good solution. Ply and self levelling cement on top? Or just ply and Lino like I currently have??
 
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If you get the boards level with the furrings then you can ply with 6 or 9mm staggered ply at 150-200mm screw spacings & a decent vinyl or click floorcovering.
 
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If you get the boards level with the furrings then you can ply with 6 or 9mm staggered ply at 150-200mm screw spacings & a decent vinyl or click floorcovering.

Do you think this would be adequate if we decided to replace the vinyl floor with a tiled floor when we get the new kitchen fitted (depends on budget when we get the kitchen replaced) as I do like the look of a tiled floor
 
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If you were to tile the floor, I would use a ditra matting and/or 9-12mm ply and build to level with a decent powdered adhesive that can cope with up to 2" depth.
 
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If you were to tile the floor, I would use a ditra matting and/or 9-12mm ply and build to level with a decent powdered adhesive that can cope with up to 2" depth.

Sorry for all the questions!
With all this extra weight on the floor would it be worth putting in some noggins and supports under the floorboards and void to stop the floor sagging in the middle??
One last thing is this sort of work likely to cause any dry rot/damp issues. I do keep the air bricks around the house clear.

Thanks for all your answers!
 

ree

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Dont do anything until you know the cause(s)?

Why does it "suddenly drop off"?

You might install a new floor according to various suggestions but what if the floor moves again?

Your pic shows the unit remaining level and the plinth dropping - yet there is no sign of any movement in the skirting? Who installed the units, and when?

You would do best to remove some boards, and investigate where the joists seat in the walls.
 
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Dont do anything until you know the cause(s)?

Why does it "suddenly drop off"?

You might install a new floor according to various suggestions but what if the floor moves again?

Your pic shows the unit remaining level and the plinth dropping - yet there is no sign of any movement in the skirting? Who installed the units, and when?

You would do best to remove some boards, and investigate where the joists seat in the walls.


The kitchen was installed by IKEA in approx 2004. We bought the house in March 2014 and the survey said it had non progressive dips in the floor (can't remember exactly how they Worded it)
I do think its a bit odd as the skirting board doesn't have a big gap in it.. As if it has either sunk with the floor over the years or been refitted flush with the floorboards
The house was built in 1848 and lots of the skirting boards do seem original or at least not recently replaced
 

ree

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The skirtings are original.

Why not post some pics showing the outside wall(s) of the kitchen.

Is the external ground level lower than the kitchen air bricks?
 
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The skirtings are original.

Why not post some pics showing the outside wall(s) of the kitchen.

Is the external ground level lower than the kitchen air bricks?

Here's a quick screen shot from Google Earth of my external wall. The air brick is i guess you would say on the first row of bricks along the bottom.
 

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