Mitre acute angles

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I need to cut a bead to fit into the eaves of my 25 degree pitched roof... so the bead actually needs to be cut at a pretty acute angle, on my mitre saw I'd have to go to 65 degrees which is far beyond what it can do. My basic mitre block can't either end even looking at a more expensive tool (https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-wood-metal-saw-block-22-560mm/118hj) it doesn't seem like it would go to such a 'sharp' angle

I also have a case where I want to put two beads mitred into the peak of the roof - so a 65 internal angle instead of the normal 90. Again that means I need more acute angles (ideally 32.5 on each piece?)

On a piece of 2x4 it's fairly easy to mark out any angle with a ruler/protractor and pencil but on a bit of quadrant bead I am really struggling without some sort of guide.
Is there a specific tool or technique I just am not aware of here?
 
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cut a bit of 18mm plywood and add on some timber fences to suit the angle you need -then fit to the mitre saw.

because the angle is so acute you might need to make a clamp of sorts to keep your fingers out of the way

but it is definitely doable, just do a risk assessment as you set it up.

to get the angle, download a right angle triangle app to your phone or use an online calculator, you can set out your jig using measurements for the 2 sides.
 
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@Notch7 so essentially pushing the piece 'lengthways' into the saw but using a backing piece to stabilise and make it safe?
I might go to the hand saw for peace of mind as it's only a little bead but thanks this technique makes sense. I'll have a practice with some scrap first :)
 
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Make yourself a support fence from a piece of sheet material and a couple of pieces of 2 x 2 softwood or the like, thus:

20221110_101407.jpg

This is planted on the bed of the saw and screwed to the back fence (which may mean drilling a couple of holes, so not for those who think tools should never be modified)

The 25 degree cut is then set on the mitre scale and the material introduced from the front of the saw.. A sacrificial plywood or softwood hold down (with any screws well away from the track of the saw blade) is highly advisable
 

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