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MR 16 questions ( I have looked )

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by aveatry, 14 Apr 2020.

  1. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Here are some pictures of a brand new _ old stock one I have. The T15 part pulls out from the back just leaving a spade connector size slot that I fill with silicone. Then I have a perfect recess for the MR16 fitting. If you look at the close up pic you can also see a rectangle box section that is deeper than the round part. This bit nicely takes the "tails" from the MR16 fitting , I then drill a hole each side inside the box section to pass the tails through the back of the light.
    IMG_20200414_201159237.jpg IMG_20200414_201250552.jpg IMG_20200414_201523584.jpg
     
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  3. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Update I have got the bulbs from scewfix and still none the wiser if they are AC only or AC/DC. I have plugged one in and there is no flickering. Would bad things only start happening when I have added more of them to the system. How can I test if they are also DC compatible. I want to try and buy all the bulbs AC/DC so at least I have a choice of compatible transformers in the future.
    Here are the bulbs and box info
     

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  4. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Here are the photos of the inside of my MR16 refit. You can see how crappy the reflectors have become. There is still enough room for a fat blueberry (its all I could find ) between the bulb face and the reflector.
     

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  5. ericmark

    ericmark

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    It is unlikely you would use a proper driver, with a proper driver they are current regulated not voltage regulated, and light are connected in series not parallel, but the lighting industry seem to call any DC supply a driver, although strictly speaking when voltage regulated they are just DC power supplies, and even the DC only bulbs still have a rectifier inside so they are not polarity dependent and can be fitted either way around.
    Correct that is what MR in MR16 stands for, "multifaceted reflector". If it does not have a reflector it is not a MR16 bulb, although may be a MR16 compatible.
     
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  6. flameport

    flameport

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    Doesn't matter in the slightest.
    If at some future date the transformer fails (which is exceptionally unlikely), then just replace it with an equivalent type.

    The things from screwfix will work on AC or DC. If they didn't, they would have huge numbers of returns from all the people who purchased DC drivers and converted their existing lights to LED.
    They won't be DC only for the same reason - if such things were sold they wouldn't work with existing AC supplies, and even with DC would only work when installed the correct way, 50% would not work on the first attempt and that would also result in vast numbers being returned as faulty.
     
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  8. Speakercon

    Speakercon

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    Nice retrofit, I did the same thing with the post lights I have, and used the G4 LED lamps.
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Ok I will relax about the AC/DC or not bulbs. Thanks everyone for your help.
    @Speakercon did you manage to get bright enough LED G4s and what was there before - was it those rubbish T15 wedge fits
     
  10. aveatry

    aveatry

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    Instead of the block connector filled with silicone I have on order some shrink tub- the adhesive waterproof one 3:1 shrink ratio problem is the MR16 tails are very thin and the select a light cable is a lot thicker. I also have on order some solder connections that melt with a heat gun. Mever used them and will have a play but I only have a blow torch - might end up burning the whole lot :LOL:
     
  11. Speakercon

    Speakercon

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    Yes, I bought some 3W G4's to replace the old T15 7W ones, they are much brighter and even though they were very cheap from ebay, they are still burning bright 3 years later.
     
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