My Potterton ep2001 programmer has gone Pete Tong!!!

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Please help me as I am new to this help forum! :oops:

I have just fitted a new grundfos pump as my old one was rattling and on removing it I found loads of red rusty looking gunk inside motor.

I took the fuse out of my consumer box so not to get zapped BUT:

when I switched it all back on the pump worked fine, but my programmer is now being weird. It at first wouldn't allow me to prog mon-fri. Then it did later. It also wont let me set the heating to auto/cont/once etc, only the right hand side of the screen responds to this and this controls the hot water.

Funny thing is when I switch the hot water to continuous it looks as though the heating comes on!

Have I scrambled the processor or am I missing something I need to do to get back on line? The diverter has nothing to do with it does it, as this is the only other thing I have touched.
 
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Sounds as if you have fried the programmer. I don't know this piece of kit but the symptoms point to a surge when you reconnected the fuse, or a chip that was waiting to die. It has nothing to do with the gunk in the pump.

Does it have a reset button? Try that. Or kill the power, wait a minute, and reconnect. If it still plays up then you can be fairly sure the microprocessor is rogered.
 
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So you have a Grundfos pump, but what type of programmer is it? what type of diverter valve is it?
 
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen.

:LOL: would you Adam and Eve it the programmer became unscrambled when I turned it of at the switch first and then pulled out the fuse. Put fuse back and then turned the power switch on.

:confused: What is bugging me though is that I have a Honeywell Sundial Y plan 3 position diverter and I have my suspicions that the red/brown mud that was in my old Grundfos pump may have done it in as well! I have bought a new motor for it and I plan to use Sentinel X400 sludge remover and X100 Inhibitor after draining some water out of the system. Any advice on this? I have anopen vented 2 pipe pumped system.

:oops: My really thick question is though, should I being seeing movement from the diverter switch from auto to manual open. I thought the motor should move the switch visibly from one point to another. The diverter does push back to the middle position when the programmer is set to just hot water. It is loose when it is set to both.[/quote]
 
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you won't see the lever move but when the motor is moved for ch the lever will be slack. when it's in dhw only it will be tight.

I see also you've discovered the font colour option.
 
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:LOL: Yes I did manage to find the colour!!!

Does it mean that I do not have touch the diverter if it makes a few clicks now and again and my central appears to be working fine? I am paranoid about this red/brown sludge!!

Now, as I found red brown sludge in the old pump (new one works perfectly). Should I drain some of the system and and put sludge remover in the F&E tank?

I have put some nails in a pint pot with some of the water from a radiator to see if they rust and plan to put inhibitor in if they do.

;) OR do you think I should leave the damn thing alone as it has had a treatment at one stage as there is a card saying DO NOT DRAIN but with no date for when the system was treated before.
 
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