Need idiots instructions for wiring tridonic ballast

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It is American
Which you can tell from this:

http://video.about.com/electrical/Identify-Wire-Color-Coding.htm


not the same in Britain.
Which you can tell from the fact that that page says things like

"Black wires are always used for hot wires ... Black Wires are never used as a Neutral".

I'm not saying the following to belittle you, or denigrate your intelligence, or imply you are inadequate in the trouser department:

You really, really, do not know enough fundamental stuff to be fiddling with electrics.

PLEASE put doing on hold until you know more than you do.


 
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The TC-L tube is ISTR basically the equivalent of a straight tube that has been bent back on itself.
So consider the pins on it left to right (or r to l) as 1,2,3,4.

(Where the straight tubes in the image BAS posted has tube 1 & 2 at one end, 3&4 at the other end.)

tube A 1 got to ballast 14
tube A 2 goes to ballast 13
tube A 3 goes to ballast 12
tube A 4 goes to tube B 4
tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

ISTR that tube 1&2 can be swapped with each other
And tube 3&4 can be swapped with each other.

The mains input goes to ballast 3 & 4

Earth goes to the unpainted metal chassis, usually via one of the bolts, looking at your pic I'd change it so it is connected via a bolt with washers either side of the cable then give the nut a good tighten, remove paint from around the screw head if it does not use a washer with little teeth that will bite through the paint.

The wire goes into the ballast and if you want to remove it you have to push a thin rod in the hole above the input to push the sprung contact back down. A large thick paper clip straightened may do this if you do not have anything else,

These lads will correct me if my memory has failed me again.

N.B. - this is all with no power applied.
 
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With the mains plug not plugged in
unplugging the lamp will reveal 4 holes where the lamp plugs in, learn to use continuity on your meter, test between the lampholder holes and each wire end of the four core cable and establish what colour goes to each hole
ie 1,2,3,4 might be brown, black, grey, green for example

a multimeter or a simple continuity tester will do this ok

check both lampholders, most likely wired same

As said previous until the order is established you could quess all day and likely blow the ballast

once this is known the outputs are simple to connect, though your main supply cable will need serious improvement


I started reading up on multi meters and this blog was mind boggling http://tangentsoft.net/elec/meters.html

Can you advise me on which meter I should buy. Preferably the cheapest possible that'll do the job.


"There is some good out there!"
 
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It is American
Which you can tell from this:

http://video.about.com/electrical/Identify-Wire-Color-Coding.htm


not the same in Britain.
Which you can tell from the fact that that page says things like

"Black wires are always used for hot wires ... Black Wires are never used as a Neutral".

I'm not saying the following to belittle you, or denigrate your intelligence, or imply you are inadequate in the trouser department:

You really, really, do not know enough fundamental stuff to be fiddling with electrics.

PLEASE put doing on hold until you know more than you do.


 
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The TC-L tube is ISTR basically the equivalent of a straight tube that has been bent back on itself.
So consider the pins on it left to right (or r to l) as 1,2,3,4.

(Where the straight tubes in the image BAS posted has tube 1 & 2 at one end, 3&4 at the other end.)

tube A 1 got to ballast 14
tube A 2 goes to ballast 13
tube A 3 goes to ballast 12
tube A 4 goes to tube B 4
tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

ISTR that tube 1&2 can be swapped with each other
And tube 3&4 can be swapped with each other.

The mains input goes to ballast 3 & 4

Earth goes to the unpainted metal chassis, usually via one of the bolts, looking at your pic I'd change it so it is connected via a bolt with washers either side of the cable then give the nut a good tighten, remove paint from around the screw head if it does not use a washer with little teeth that will bite through the paint.

The wire goes into the ballast and if you want to remove it you have to push a thin rod in the hole above the input to push the sprung contact back down. A large thick paper clip straightened may do this if you do not have anything else,

These lads will correct me if my memory has failed me again.

N.B. - this is all with no power applied.

Thankyou very much mattylad - Very interesting reading your response because it makes sense the way you describe the tube and its points. I'll spend tomorrow working on it, after I've been out to buy a new Cable and possibly a multimeter if I can get advice on which ones best to buy etc.

I'll follow your advice to the T and I'll be over the moon if it works - that's hoping that the loud bang on the ballast previously was only a cut out and not a write off. If so I'll have to buy a new ballast and take it from there.

I'll keep you posted on the progress. Thanks once again

"There's some good out there"
 
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It is American
Which you can tell from this:

http://video.about.com/electrical/Identify-Wire-Color-Coding.htm


not the same in Britain.
Which you can tell from the fact that that page says things like

"Black wires are always used for hot wires ... Black Wires are never used as a Neutral".

I'm not saying the following to belittle you, or denigrate your intelligence, or imply you are inadequate in the trouser department:

You really, really, do not know enough fundamental stuff to be fiddling with electrics.

PLEASE put doing on hold until you know more than you do.


 
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I just interpreted BAS's picture, I must not be wrong or they would have pounced on my post.

The wires are just the bits in between so make sure they are connected correctly. Use the mutlimeter to continuity check them
 
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I just interpreted BAS's picture, I must not be wrong or they would have pounced on my post.

The wires are just the bits in between so make sure they are connected correctly. Use the mutlimeter to continuity check them

Thanks matty - I'm about to have a go at wiring it up now. The Euro game's on in a bit - I figure if I can get my lights to work, then I wont feel so bad if we lose against Sweden later on. That's how desperate I am!

I'll keep you posted.

Cheers

"There is some good out there"
 

Tls

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This is the Data Wiring sheet that I cant understand.
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e28/0900766b80e28130.pdf[/QUOTE]
There's little point in beating around the bush.

Leaving aside whether you have the tools and ability to identify conductors, and even if you exaggerate and mean you've been looking at the instructions for 5 days, or even 5 hours, if after that time you still don't understand this:

t326218.jpg


then electrics really isn't for you - please get an electrician.

@Ban-all-sheds : I tried to source Electricians and every one of the 9 'traders' quoted me between £72+vat to 95+vat (and that's excluding the Ballast.) The lights only cost me £20 - hence why I'm trying to fix them myself. Its a shame that today's tradesmen turn their noses up at repair work by charging too much. When electrics breakdown, we have to throw away and buy brand new (made in China) - What a wasteful nation we are! I'll keep on trying by watching this, for a start http://video.about.com/electrical/Identify-Wire-Color-Coding.htm

Thank God for the internet!
If that's really what they are charging I should go alone, I fit around 20of these a week and dont get that kind of money in a day
 
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I appreciate your warnings but if we all gave up on everything we didn't understand - We would still be eating raw meat and carrying Clubs to beat on the future wife's head as a mating ritual.
I'm not saying give up on it - quite the opposite in fact.

I'm saying become more skilled at it before trying to do stuff when you don't actually have the right level of skill.
 
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I appreciate your warnings but if we all gave up on everything we didn't understand - We would still be eating raw meat and carrying Clubs to beat on the future wife's head as a mating ritual.
i'm not saying give up on it - quite the opposite in fact.

I'm saying become more skilled at it before trying to do stuff when you don't actually have the right level of skill.

Thank you very much for the advice on both occasions. I was just joking and not being sarky with my last 'quote' about 'raw meat' etc.

I studied as per your advice and I'm quite sure I understand it now. I bought a digital multimeter from Maplins and then it all made sense when looking at the wiring diagram sent previously.

Just waiting on the purchase and set up of my new fish tank (on or around June/July time) and I'll hopefully get the lights on, take a picture of the result and proudly post on here, the humongous achievement (on my part).

However, I haven't actually tried wiring it up yet, since I do want to be sure that what I do is correct and that I'll have a back up Ballast and Plan if my set up is wrong.

fingers crossed!

Cheers & Beers :D
 
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The TC-L tube is ISTR basically the equivalent of a straight tube that has been bent back on itself.
So consider the pins on it left to right (or r to l) as 1,2,3,4.

(Where the straight tubes in the image BAS posted has tube 1 & 2 at one end, 3&4 at the other end.)

tube A 1 got to ballast 14
tube A 2 goes to ballast 13
tube A 3 goes to ballast 12
tube A 4 goes to tube B 4
tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

ISTR that tube 1&2 can be swapped with each other
And tube 3&4 can be swapped with each other.

The mains input goes to ballast 3 & 4

Earth goes to the unpainted metal chassis, usually via one of the bolts, looking at your pic I'd change it so it is connected via a bolt with washers either side of the cable then give the nut a good tighten, remove paint from around the screw head if it does not use a washer with little teeth that will bite through the paint.

The wire goes into the ballast and if you want to remove it you have to push a thin rod in the hole above the input to push the sprung contact back down. A large thick paper clip straightened may do this if you do not have anything else,

These lads will correct me if my memory has failed me again.

N.B. - this is all with no power applied.

Thankyou very much mattylad - Very interesting reading your response because it makes sense the way you describe the tube and its points. I'll spend tomorrow working on it, after I've been out to buy a new Cable and possibly a multimeter if I can get advice on which ones best to buy etc.

I'll follow your advice to the T and I'll be over the moon if it works - that's hoping that the loud bang on the ballast previously was only a cut out and not a write off. If so I'll have to buy a new ballast and take it from there.

I'll keep you posted on the progress. Thanks once again

"There's some good out there"



Hi there! I got the multi-meter on and it showed the pins from top to bottom, as 1,2,3,4 - looking at the casing upside down, with the bulb pins to the left:

Brown wire is 1 (top), Blue is 2, Black is 3 & green is 4.

Funnily enough, this is how I originally wired it up, as per locations above http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/img0221kw.jpg/ except I located

tube B 1 goes to ballast 9
tube b 2 goes to ballast 10
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens were both bolted onto the chassis. This time though, I followed your advice and hooked up as per

tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens this time around, were wound together and sealed with insulation tape. However, nothing worked when I plugged it all in. Could it be that the ballast blew up last time around?

thanks again
 
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With the mains plug not plugged in
unplugging the lamp will reveal 4 holes where the lamp plugs in, learn to use continuity on your meter, test between the lampholder holes and each wire end of the four core cable and establish what colour goes to each hole
ie 1,2,3,4 might be brown, black, grey, green for example

a multimeter or a simple continuity tester will do this ok

check both lampholders, most likely wired same

As said previous until the order is established you could quess all day and likely blow the ballast

once this is known the outputs are simple to connect, though your main supply cable will need serious improvement


I started reading up on multi meters and this blog was mind boggling http://tangentsoft.net/elec/meters.html

Can you advise me on which meter I should buy. Preferably the cheapest possible that'll do the job.


Hi there! I got the multi-meter on and it showed the pins from top to bottom, as 1,2,3,4 - looking at the casing upside down, with the bulb pins to the left:

Brown wire is 1 (top), Blue is 2, Black is 3 & green is 4.

Funnily enough, this is how I originally wired it up, as per locations above http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/img0221kw.jpg/ except I located

tube B 1 goes to ballast 9
tube b 2 goes to ballast 10
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens were both bolted onto the chassis. This time though, I followed matty's advice and hooked up as per

tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens this time around, were wound together and sealed with insulation tape. However, nothing worked when I plugged it all in. Could it be that the ballast blew up last time around?

thanks again




"There is some good out there!"
 
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This is the Data Wiring sheet that I cant understand.
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e28/0900766b80e28130.pdf[/QUOTE]
There's little point in beating around the bush.

Leaving aside whether you have the tools and ability to identify conductors, and even if you exaggerate and mean you've been looking at the instructions for 5 days, or even 5 hours, if after that time you still don't understand this:

t326218.jpg


then electrics really isn't for you - please get an electrician.

@Ban-all-sheds : I tried to source Electricians and every one of the 9 'traders' quoted me between £72+vat to 95+vat (and that's excluding the Ballast.) The lights only cost me £20 - hence why I'm trying to fix them myself. Its a shame that today's tradesmen turn their noses up at repair work by charging too much. When electrics breakdown, we have to throw away and buy brand new (made in China) - What a wasteful nation we are! I'll keep on trying by watching this, for a start http://video.about.com/electrical/Identify-Wire-Color-Coding.htm

Thank God for the internet!
If that's really what they are charging I should go alone, I fit around 20of these a week and dont get that kind of money in a day


Hi there! I got the multi-meter on and it showed the pins from top to bottom, as 1,2,3,4 - looking at the casing upside down, with the bulb pins to the left:

Brown wire is 1 (top), Blue is 2, Black is 3 & green is 4.

Funnily enough, this is how I originally wired it up, as per locations above http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/img0221kw.jpg/ except I located

tube B 1 goes to ballast 9
tube b 2 goes to ballast 10
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens were both bolted onto the chassis. This time though, I followed matty's advice and hooked up as per

tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens this time around, were wound together and sealed with insulation tape. However, nothing worked when I plugged it all in. Could it be that the ballast blew up last time around?

thanks again
 
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Can you verify what core in the cable does what on the lampholder using a multimeter? You have what appears to be a 4 core cable and 4 pin lamp holder, is the fitting plastic? Is the earth wire (green/yellow) connected to one of the pins on the lamp holder?
I don't think the ballast is meant to have flex attached to it either, definately shouldn't have any live copper showing.


Hi there! I got the multi-meter on and it showed the pins from top to bottom, as 1,2,3,4 - looking at the casing upside down, with the bulb pins to the left:

Brown wire is 1 (top), Blue is 2, Black is 3 & green is 4.

Funnily enough, this is how I originally wired it up, as per locations above http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/img0221kw.jpg/ except I located

tube B 1 goes to ballast 9
tube b 2 goes to ballast 10
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens were both bolted onto the chassis. This time though, I followed matty's advice and hooked up as per

tube B 1 goes to ballast 10
tube b 2 goes to ballast 9
tube B 3 goes to ballast 11

and the greens this time around, were wound together and sealed with insulation tape. However, nothing worked when I plugged it all in. Could it be that the ballast blew up last time around?

thanks again
 
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