New alarm cabling

[33frog]

Hi there, for various reasons the ceiling in the hall of our ground floor flat is down and a new one is going up next week. It's occurred to me that since every room is off the hallway now is there perfect time to run cabling for a future alarm install. At this stage I don't know if the alarm will be DIY or professional install but I do know I want it wired and not wireless so I'd like to run the cables to each room myself before the ceiling goes up.

I appreciate that without plans etc you can't advise on detector location etc (I won't point them at windows or site above rads) but as for running the cable, would I be ok to run 8 core alarm cable as follows or have I missed anything?

Front door contact to Panel
Hall detector to Panel
Living room detector to Panel
Bedroom 1 detector to Panel
Bedroom 2 detector to Panel
Kitchen detector to Panel
Back door contact to Panel
Panel to keypad in Hall
Panel to external sounder
Panel to internal sounder

I've read about not running alarm cabling alongside power cables etc and I'll be sure to label each accordingly. There will be a FCU beside the panel and I can get a telephone socket there if that's advisable too?

At this stage I'm thinking the smoke/CO2 detector will be mains and separate from alarm.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Lectrician]

Yes, looks fine, but 6 core would be fine for all your runs.

If you have sensors back to back, you could run an 8 core from the panel to one detector, and then loop from one to the other using either some 6 or 8 core.

Depending on the panel you use, some have provisions for zones wired from the keypad (two zones). Depending on your layout, you find it saves on cable runs. Would need to be a compatible panel then.

Even if your smoke alarm is mains powered (I prefer them), you could still run an alarm cable to either of your interlinked smoke alarms, and fit a relay base beneath it (Aico Easyfit Smokes have these). Your mains interlinked smokes then operate like usual, but you could interface to the intruder alarm also - not necessarily to generate an alarm, but to activate a dialler should you opt for one.

 

[EightyTwo]

8-core gives you loads of flexibility and allows the mice to chew through a couple but it's a bit fat for some door contacts (they only need 2 cores if you're using FSL resistors).

Lectrician is right - 6-core would do but I always like to run 8-core to the bell (although you usually only need five).

Looks like you've got it covered (no dining room?).

 

[sparkymarka]

Phone cable to bt point in case you ever need COMMS or a cat 5....

 

[33frog]

Thank you everybody for taking the time to respond. A good few tips there and I take the point about 8-core being a bit thick for the door contacts. I might see if I can get some 6-core for those. Thanks again.

 

[33frog]

Hi there, going to do my cable runs tomorrow but I think I'll be leaving the rest of the install to a much later date. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best position for the hall detector and do you think the intended positions for the detectors make sense?

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• 33frog
• 16 Oct 2014
• 1

I've read so much about NOT pointing detectors at the window but this seems to loose the visual deterrent they provide but best to go with the tech advice of the manufacturers and those that know. I'll be putting up a functioning bell box so there will be some visual deterrent.

 

[EightyTwo]

I might put the keypad on the other wall (left - bed2) so that you don't have to go behind the door to get to it. Or by the living room door, facing you as you come in.

Do you have a fire in the living room? If so, put the PIR in the front right corner, on the other side of the bay window.

Try to make sure that the kitchen PIR isn't looking at your cooker or boiler - back left might be better.

The hall PIR probably wants to go in the front right corner.

Worry less about windows and more about radiators!