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new ceiling rose in kitchen

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by nogoodatfaultfinding, 7 Aug 2011.

  1. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    trying to put a new ceiling rose in my kitchen after a flood, took old fancy light off to fit a standard rose, old light has 3 x Black cables, 3 x red and 2 x earth, where should these go on the new rose?
    Im thinking 3 x red to the loop and 3x black to the nuetral and obviously eart to earth would this be right?
    PS i do have my part p(im a plumber lol) but none of the Black wires have a live (red) sleeve so im struggling.

    Any help would be appreciated!!!

    Thanks
    Charles

    PPS no jokes about plumber with flood electric shocker ok guys!!!
     
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  3. martinxxxxxx

    martinxxxxxx

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    I wonder why Part P has a bad name. Bloomin eck, did you get it by mail order.

    OK did you buy a multimeter in order to start charging people for your electrical services.

    If so, turn of the power, and use your multimeter on ohms to identify which black and red is going to the switch.
     
  4. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    Wow thanks for the intelligent input mate its much appreciated and i hope i can help if your boiler ever fails. K.N.O.B
    I did my part P to fit fuse spares to boilers and have never needed it for owt else, actually i did it to stop K.N.O.B.S like you saying "cant you even fit a fuse spare".
    Anyway i will ask the guys onsite tomorrow for the answer, ps what should the resistance of a Gas Valve on a Ideal Classic be?
    Oh yeah you wont know your not a plumber!!!!
    Well i do smart A.R.S.E
     
  5. PrenticeBoyofDerry

    PrenticeBoyofDerry

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    The best practical way to do this would be by using a multi-meter to identify what the cables are.
    Are the cables singles or twins?
    Normally you would loop the reds and link two of the blacks up as neutrals and have the left over black as a switch wire.
    What do you have at the switch that operates the light?
     
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  6. Monkeh

    Monkeh

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    Check the wiring diagrams in the wiki. It's very simple.
     
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  7. martinxxxxxx

    martinxxxxxx

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    I told you how to fix it dint I?

    No need to get quite so uppity.

    Even if you knew nothing common sense might of told you to mark up the switch wire when you took it out :D

    Is it 2000ohms by any chance?
     
  8. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    You need to copy the way it was orginally wired - possibly before some wires were joined in a connector block together on their own. These wires would go into the centre 'loop' terminal.

    Assuming your kitchen has just the one light, the black that goes to the switch goes to the switch live terminal (where the brown flex is).

    The remaining blacks should be the neutral (where the blue flex is).

    The reds go together in the centre loop terminal.

    All the earths go together in the earth terminal. I would have expected three earth wires, perhaps two bare earth wires share one sleeve.

    How was the old light wired?
     
  9. thomo27

    thomo27

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    :cool:

    are you from the Boro by any chance lol
     
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  11. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    It does seem extreme to be Part P approved just to fit spare fuses.
     
  12. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    That's not exactly relevant is it?
    We're not pretending to be 'Gas Safe' plumbers.

    If I wanted to know I'm sure I could find it on Google without making a fool of myself.

    10/10 for bravado, though.
     
  13. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    No, no, no, no and f*****g NO!

    If you have that qualification you MUST have the appropriate test equipment and you MUST know how to use it, and how to identify a switch cable FFS.

    Or you are a charlatan, not actually qualified as you believe.

    There's only one K.N.O.B. here, and it's you. I know you're a plumber, but even so....
     
  14. fireman22

    fireman22

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    are you sure there are only 2 earths? has one been cut off very short or snapped very close to the sleeving
    but really it will be three reds in the centre terminal of the rose
    2 blacks in the neutral terminal with the blue of the flex drop
    1 black in the live terminal with the brown of the flex drop
    only problem is identifying which black becomes live when you turn the switch on
     
  15. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    The resistance of an AC operated coil ( the gas valve has a coil in it ) is not a valid means to check the coil is in good condition. A couple of shorted turns ( out of the many hundreds of turns ) will have little effect on the measured resistance to DC current but will have a significant effect on the impedance to AC current. Shorted turns will create ( excessive ) heat in the coil and may affect the magnetic action of the mechanism the coil is part of .

    Some are smart, some are knowledgeable and a few are both.
     
  16. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    If you believe I am Part P or not is upto you but I am, I came on here looking for an answer to a question not for my ability to be ridiculed due to a set up exam situation. The only reason I mentioned my Quality as I did not want you to think I was a bodger. I do have the relevant equip but being a Sunday afternoon they were in the works stores as it's not my own but Poole equipment. Thanks to all who gave me the solution it's now sorted. Reason us plumbers need part p is like I said for Fuse Spurs and also S and Y plans or converting these plans to a combi
     
  17. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Stop digging.

    How do you manage S and Y plans if you can't work out one light?
     
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