Oil Burner Fails to start in cold weather.

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I had central heating installed a few years ago and when there is cold weather like your frosty mornings, the burner will not fire.

The box attached to the front starts, and then the burner fires and stops after a few seconds or so.

Now and again you can get it to fire by pressing the button on the box (not sure what the proper name of this box is or what it or the button does) and it will attempt to fire again. Sometimes it will fire and go like a beauty.

If I turn it all off completely for a while and then turn it on later, it often goes.

What could be wrong. Had the plumber out a few months after he installed it when the weather got cold and he hadn't a solution, just that this is sometimes the case with oil burners.

The oil burner in my other house works like a dream and never fails to start and its been in over twice as long.

Cheers for any help.
 
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My Transit won't start in this weather unless I pour boiling water over the induction castings. Please let me know if you find a solution to your prob... :D
 
ChrisR said:
My Transit won't start in this weather unless I pour boiling water over the induction castings. Please let me know if you find a solution to your prob... :D
you need new glo plugs or the relay that feeds them :LOL: What, its direct injection :?: :oops:
 
I would think the problem is related to the viscosity of the fuel.
This suggests you may be using an incorrect grade. Mine uses kerosene and I have never experienced your problem since it was installed 32 years ago. However the last 14 ft of my oil supply pipe is under the kitchen floor, so it is kind of protected. Maybe your pipe would benefit from insulation.
The only other points I feel could be related are; pump pressure?
As pumps wear the pressure will drop slightly, but it well worth a few quid to have a pressure gauge so you can verify it is correct.
Nozzle; A dirty or partially blocked nozzle is not going to help and for £5 it is worth fitting a new one every year.
The box you refer to is a control box which is needed for safety purposes.
I have run my boiler without the control box just to test 'pump' 'solinoid' and 'transformer', but imagine if the flame went out there would be a kitchen covered in oil, so the 'flame sensor' and control box keep watch and stop the boiler within a few seconds.
The button is the reset button, so after you have correted whatever is the problem, you reset the control box from the 'lock out' position and away you go. Also make sure the flame sensor is clean and is facing the flame
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
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Darkness said:
...... Had the plumber out a few months after he installed it when the weather got cold and he hadn't a solution, just that this is sometimes the case with oil burners................

Sounds like he does not know much about oil burners. What are the combustion figures? Particularly CO2, CO and Flue temperature.

What make and model boiler?

What make and model burner?

What oil?

Give some information, it helps.
 
exactly, you plonker....give a little more information :rolleyes:

like, is it the nightmare scenario????.......the wall mounted.....thermecon :eek: :eek: :eek:

:p
 
I would give the information you plonker but I've just flew into Glasgow and will not be flying back home until the mornings flight.

Until then, hold your horses.
 
You really should change the medication, whatever it is you are using, isn't working.
 
Here is some detail if that helps.

- Firebird Popular Boiler Model 90
- Riello 40 G3B (large supposingly control box)

Using Kerosene 28 sec Oil according to large sticker on box.

Can't see information for the burner unless I have to remove a cover to get that info as its just the large boiler with large control box attached to front.

I'll have another inspection to see if I can locate that info.
 
What was the CO2 reading when you had it commissioned/serviced.
 
Hi
back in the old days we use to preheat the heating oil in the tanks during cold spells .Due to you saying it only happens during cold weather ,could the storage tank or feed pipes be in a particulaly cold spot would lagging help?
 
The odd thing is, I don't have any readings to give you and don't remember the guy giving me any such readings.

A friend gave me the number of a guy that services them whom is very well respected in the area so I'm going to arrange a service.

I will take a look at the feed from the tank to the burner and lag them if they are exposed.

I'll do that and have the burner serviced.

Cheers for the help folk.
 
If you have kerosene, don't bother about lagging, preheating or any similar remedies. I got the stuff down to -60, and it still wouldn't freeze.
 

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