One for the BAxi Boys

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Hey chaps

I went to a 100He (bahama megaflow or what ever they decide to badge it as today ;) ) and the lock out light was lit

So i try to reset it Nowt
I check the OV thermister room temp 15k Which I presume is ok
Temp Thermister the same
I disconnect the earth on the condesate trap and nowt

So I change the Main PCB (after driving like a mad thing to the shop before the lazy wotsits take the rest of the day off!! gits) and Success I thought

It tried to fire up three times failed went to lock out

And BAM I am back to square one, Client has No Book and for some reason Baxi Techs have all gone home. :)

Have I missed something, I am a numpty nuggets (well I know I am but still need to sort the boiler out ;) )

Any Clues would be welcome.
 
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How far is it getting before lock out, not that I am a Baxi expert :rolleyes:
 
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What is the lock out suggesting is it ignition is it dry fire etc....................
 
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Cheers Chaps

when I first attended it didnt do nowt, red light on and nowt

and Baxi I have no idea what it is suggesting its a solid red light, I have check the stupid flow switch (why oh why do they put it at the top of the boiler with NO WAY of venting air out of it but thats another moan ;) ) and its closed circuit. The pump was intially in the PL connector so I changed it to the SL to get it going, dont know why but it seemed like a good idea at the time.

anything else I should be checking?

PS I really appreciate the response, if you were around I would buy you both a pint, only ONE mind as I am tighter that a frogs harris :)
 
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Is this the Megaflo 24HE?
Should give error codes Exxx?
 
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ChrisR said:
Is this the Megaflo 24HE?
Should give error codes Exxx?

Sorry chris but I was kidding

its a 100he GC no 41 075 32 if that helps

:)

cheers matey
 
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Well if it's a solid red and it won't reset, the manual says either the pcb you changed, or the other pcb, the control knob pot/wiring, or inter pcb wiring.
So you have the ususal choice - visit again and check the cheap bits (wiring) and find nothing wrong so you've wasted a trip, or buy the pcb in case, turn up and find you don't need it....

You can just short the flow switch pins on the pcb by the way - the boiler works when the fs sticks shut.
 
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corgiman said:
100He
So I change the Main PCB .

Ignition PCB would have been a better bet!

Does gas valve open? (smell gas in the combustion chamber)
Is the electrode gap at least 4mm, can you hear/see it sparking?
 
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baxpoti said:
corgiman said:
100He
So I change the Main PCB .

Ignition PCB would have been a better bet!

Does gas valve open? (smell gas in the combustion chamber)
Is the electrode gap at least 4mm, can you hear/see it sparking?

Sorry Bax but it aint getting that far

turn it on

red

try and reset

red

Nothing
nada
butkiss
it is a dead boiler

and so on

I know what you meanj chris, I have for conitnuity on all the wiring and it seems ok

guess I have to be the type of chap Agile hates and chuck parts at the heap of shyte till it works

Oh hum
 
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