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Outside Light/Power advice needed please

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by dalespitfire, 14 Nov 2019.

  1. dalespitfire

    dalespitfire

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    Hi all, apologies for the lengthy post and if I come across as dim at any point, just struggling to get my head around something.

    At present I’ve no external power or lighting at my property (solid engineering brick construction built in 1905) aside to a couple of wall lights by our front door.

    With winter and the dark nights upon us I’m wanting to install some external lights along with a couple of Ring floodlight cameras. I’ll also get some external sockets put in at the same time.

    As mentioned, there is nothing in place at present where I’m needing lights and power and as I’m wanting lights at multiple points I’d rather not be damaging multiple interior walls to get what I need.

    I’ve attached a pic of roughly what I’m after.

    Aside to the fact it won’t look the neatest on the outside, I’m thinking the simplest way is wiring the lights in series using sheathed cable clipped to the brick.....or is there a much more obvious method I’m missing?

    As mentioned just want to have an idea of what I’m asking for when I get the professionals in.

    cheers in advance,

    Dale.
     

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  3. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Not really sure what you are asking.


    The outside sockets can simply be spurred from inside ones on the other side of the wall.

    The lights can be run from sockets or the lighting circuit in the upstairs floor void or in the loft or the present lights depending on how you want them to work and be switched.
    Where do you want the switch(es) and do you want them all on the same one?

    You should use flexible cable (not twin & earth) for outside runs and the lights will be wired in parallel (not series - but that's probably what you meant).


    Obviously there will have to be cables to all the new items so where it is run is up to you.
     
  4. dalespitfire

    dalespitfire

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    Hi,

    The sockets are not an issue as you say, it’s more the lights.

    I’d obviously prefer not to be chasing plaster or lifting the floor in what effectively would be 5 rooms around the house to get to where the various lights are positioned.

    This is why I’d thought about external cabling. Although the mounting of the lights then becomes a bit of an issue as most seem to be surface mounted and leave no room for cable :-/

    And I’d like all the lights on/off from a single switch really rather than split front and back.

    Cheers
     
  5. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    It is a good idea to provide double pole ( Live and Neutral ) isolation for external sockets that are spurred from indoor sockets. Without isolation if the external socket becomes damaged and/or water logged then the RCD and/or MCB protecting the circuit may operate. These could not be reset until the damaged/water logged socket was removed/repaired.

    Being able to "switch off" external sockets also prevents theft of electricity.
     
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  7. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    Outside lights work better if they are up high, which means you could wire them in the loft and out through the eaves to the lights. You could certainly add LED outside lights, to your first floor lighting circuit and switch them from the upstairs, or do as I have done with mine, have them come on with a wireless remote control, which I keep downstairs.

    The cameras could be installed in a similar way. Bernard's suggestion of isolating them with a DP isolating switch is a good one.

    If you are thinking of having outdoor sockets for other purposes, such as hedge cutters, mowers etc. then they absolutely must include an RCD.
     
  8. dalespitfire

    dalespitfire

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    Unfortunately (or fortunately!) the house is 3 storey which rules out the loft access route too.
     
  9. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    So probably your tidiest job, will be to drill through walls between a ceiling and floor, into the joist space and run cables under the floor. At which ever floor is the easier to lift to get cables through, though higher is better for the lights.

    PIR's, if you fit them, need to be generally much lower - just high enough to be above easy reach.
     
  10. winston1

    winston1

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    Any new sockets whatever they are for must be RCD protected. But not individually. If there is already RCD protection at the CU that is all that is required.
     
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