Oven and hob connection - is this a good idea?

[diy_dude]

I have a 10mm2 from the CU to a 45A switch in the wall near to cooker. Behind the cooker is a cable outlet plate. At the CU the cable was not terminated when the CU was replaced, however there is a spare 'way' available for an MCB. This was discussed with the spark who installed the CU.

I plan to replace the old gas cooker with a gas hob and a new electric oven, both come with 13A plugs. Could I have the cable outlet plate replaced with a double unswitched socket and have an MCB installed in the CU, I assume 16A?

I ask because I plan to refit the kitchen soon and want to make sure no new wires need chasing into the wall before decorating.

The oven is rated at 2.35kW, the hob at 0.02kW.
By my calcs this is a 10.3A load.

(2.37*1000)/230 = 10.30A

 

[davy_owen_88]

I doubt you'll get 10mm² t&e into the socket terminals, instead keep the outlet plate, fit a 16A MCB and run 2.5mm² cable between outlet plate and the new double socket.

 

[diy_dude]

Now why didn't I think of that??

At least the concept is OK.

 

[plugwash]

if it were me i'd replace the outlet plate with a single to double conveter socket and reduce the breaker to 32A (allowing for a nice big load on the cooker switch socket if desired). I suspect you will get the 10mm in the terminals though it may be tight. you can always chock block on a short length of thinner wire to go to the socket terminals.

 

[securespark]

10 mill will go in skts, for sure.

 

[RF Lighting]

I've had 16.0mm² tails straight into an MK socket before now

 

[Steve]

and you've got the picture to prove it . . .

 

[plugwash]

what are the terminals on those converter sockets actually like?

 

[securespark]

Not bad, if you mean size-wise...

 

[sparkyspike]

what are the terminals on those converter sockets actually like?

The Clipsal ones are pants. You'll be struggling with 10mm!