Plug stuck in socket?

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I have a plug that is stuck solid in the socket.

The screws that fix the socket to the wall are obscured by the plug, so I can't even take the socket off the wall.

Any advice on how I can sort this out?
 
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If the plug is stuck in then they'll be something sadly amiss, I'd go as far as to say replace both the plug and socket as it may have been damaged. What it the plug supplying?
As to how to gain access to the screws, turn the electric off then apply brute force and ignorance ;) . Have a new socket waiting to go on beforehand.
 
Does the plug supply a large load such as a heater, tumble dryer etc?



If so chances are it has overheated, and therefor both the plug and socket will require replacement.


Turn off the power, and use a hammer and screwdriver to break away enough of the plug to get access to the socket screws.


<edit> Damn you spark123 :evil:
 
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Thanks for the replies :LOL:

It's a moulded plug supplying a washing machine.

And the socket is mounted on wall tiles :evil:

Brute force is the only solution? I can see damage to the tiles looming on the horizon!
 
You could try renching the plug with a pair of waterpump plier or mole grips, or prise the plug out by hammering a screwdriver between the plug and socket. Agiain make sure the power is definatly off before you try any of this.




Failing that, use a large flat bladed screwdriver and start to break the socket out in the center, working towords the edges. This will crack the rest of the socket and avoid damage to the surroundings.


This is how we remove socket fronts which have been tiled in. (or an SDS drill and chisel bit) ;)


Don't forget to take a photo of the frazzled plug / socket and post it on this site for us all to see.

We love pictures™ :LOL:
 
as others have said make sure you have replacements to hand and that power is isolated before you start.

if the plug is stuck in you won't be able to hit the socket directly in the middle

my first instinct would be to attack the plug using whatever tools seem to be able to remove chunks of it with the aim of exposing the socket screws then unscrew and remove the entire plug and socket assembly together.

make damn sure you have the power off and have a replcement socket handy before starting, you probablly also want an extention lead from another cuircuit in case you deem it nessacery to attack with power tools
 
HANG ON

Brute force is not as good as planned force as collateral damage will happen. Like the back box becomes damaged or loose in the hole in the wall.

Ensuring the power is off hacksaw the plug rather than hammering it Cutting between the pins will finish up with at worst three pins and some remant of plastic stuck to the socket but with the screws visible. As long as the screws holding the socket plate into the back box are accessible that is a s far as you need to go on the plug. You do not need to remove all of it from the socket.

Then un-screw the screws and remove the socket.

Hope there is enough un-damaged insulation to re-make the connections

If there is heat damage to the insulation ensure the un-discoloured insulation is not brittle.
 
Sledgehammer & nut spring to mind....

Stevesey just loves his power tools...you can tell! :LOL:
 
As everyone says isolate the power to the socket & then use an old screwdriver or wood chisel & knock it between the plug & the socket face from the side, avoiding the plug pins, you may then be able to lever the plug out of the socket, but I doubt if you will do it without damage to the socket so be ready to replace it.
 
After a bit of research..

The socket screw is exactly half way down the socket and hidden behind the jammed plug.

Drill horizontally into the side of the plug where the screw is hiding as close to the face of the socket a possible. Then open up that hole towards the socket face until you can get a screwdriver into the screw. Undo the screw and bring the socket face plate forward as you unscrew it.

On some plug and socket combinations the edge of the screw is visible so the depth of hole required is only 4 mm or 7mm at the worst.

And the back box remains un-damaged and still as tightly fitted as it was before.
 

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