Power Transfer Switch

[britishrallying]

Hi,

Is there another type of switch you can get that doesnt cost over 200 notes to change between a gen and suppliers supply? other than the one in the link below.

http://www.briggsandstrattongenerators.co.uk/pages/powertransfer.htm

Thanks

Gaz

 

[RF Lighting]

Something like this will do the job, but if you are installing it to supply your whole installation (as opposed to just a single circuit) then you would need it to be rated at 100A or more to carry the current delivered by your main fuse, when switched to non generator mode (TLC only have upto 63A on their website)



http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KMT5B37I.html

 

[britishrallying]

Thanks RF, thats better on the pocket! need a 100A one though, will be suppling whole installation when gen not in use.

Background being my mate is on a TT supply in a fairly rural area, prob once a month he has a power cut for a few hours or days at a time. So wants to be able to run at least a few lights off his generator:

SH 2500, HONDA, 2.75 kVA

2.75 kVA - 2.2 kW,
230 Volts, 50 Hz, 3000 r.p.m.
HONDA - GX160 engine.
PROFESSIONAL GENERATOR.
16A 230V output
16A 110V ouput

Thanks for your help mate,

Gaz

 

[bernardgreen]

The alternative to 100 amp C/O switch is to have a second consumer unit with the essential circuits moved over to it and feed this CU via a C/O switch. Lights, fridge etc.

This means that the generator will not be overloaded and tripped by an oven or other heavy load being turned on by mistake or a time switched item switching itself on. It also avoids the need to ensure all all but essentials have been turned off before changing over to the generator.

Worth considering an emergency lamp ( one that automatically turns on on power failure ) fitted by the generator to ease the task of starting it.

 

[Lectrician]

Yup, I would put the lighting circuits and possibly one or two sockets onto a NEW consumer unit, and feed this via the 63amp change over switch. this way, only the lights and the two sockets can ever be powered by the generator.

I would deffinently go this router, as that generator you quote is quite small. You will also be aware when the mains supply has been restored, as everything else will fire up - If you transfered the entire house and unplugged all non-essential stuff, you would never know when the power was returned!

Put a 16amp APPLIANCE inlet on the wall feeding the changeover switch, and fit a neutral to earth link inside this inlet. Make sure you also put an earth road in - although I recall you said TT, so hopefully you have one already.

 

[bernardgreen]

If you transfered the entire house and unplugged all non-essential stuff, you would never know when the power was returned!.

Oh yes, I forget that problem. You can't rely on your neighhbours lights to tell you the power is back on.

 

[britishrallying]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies most appreciated, had a look at the job this morning, bit confused as to the space I have to work in:

So i have made a basic sketch:

Would I be right in thinking then if using the 63 Amp 3 Pole Change Over Switch, disc tails from current consumer unit, cut cable where I can find room for the CO switch (obviously with supply disconnected ) into number 2 for example, and gen into number 1?

I understand if gen is on 1 and connected to a new consumer with say downstairs lights on, only this circuit would work, but how would that same circuit work when mains power is restored and C/O switch in 2 position supplying current consumer?

Think ive confused myself now!

Thanks,

Gaz

 

[bernardgreen]

Add a 16 amp MCB to the existing consumer unit. From there feed to the 2 input of the C/O switch. Generator on input 1 and the common output to the main switch of the new consumer unit.

 

[britishrallying]

Add a 16 amp MCB to the existing consumer unit. From there feed to the 2 input of the C/O switch. Generator on input 1 and the common output to the main switch of the new consumer unit.

Cheers mate!! makes more sense now.

Gaz

 

[britishrallying]

Put a 16amp APPLIANCE inlet on the wall feeding the changeover switch, and fit a neutral to earth link inside this inlet. Make sure you also put an earth road in - although I recall you said TT, so hopefully you have one already.

Is this what you were referring to? seeing theres no IP rating and not up on industrial stuff, can these be used outside?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3A.html

I assumed he was on a TT and no its a TN-C-S, not got a Earth Electrode Tester, got a Metrel 61557 all in one tester, but doesnt have that feature, knew I should have got the Fluke!! oh well back to borrowing one.

Cheers

Gaz

 

[plugwash]

if you have grid power availible for your test then you can get a conserative estimate (e.g. a value that will be higher than the actual value) of an earth electrodes resistance using your loop tester. You only really need the rod tester if you are doing an installation that has no grid hookup at all.

 

[britishrallying]

if you have grid power availible for your test then you can get a conserative estimate (e.g. a value that will be higher than the actual value) of an earth electrodes resistance using your loop tester. You only really need the rod tester if you are doing an installation that has no grid hookup at all.

Oh yeah, forgot it can be done that way. Hopefully the weather is kind the weekend, cheers plugwash!

Gaz

 

[Lectrician]

I would wire everything up for 32amp.

Use a 32amp MCB in the original CU, use 4mm T+E or larger, larger especially if inlet is far away. Use 32amp Appliance inlet (the one you link to is fine for indoors). The flex from the gen to appliance inlet can then be a lead with a 16amp plug to 32amp coupler (the bit that plugs into the appliance inlet).

This allows a larger generator to be used in the future.

 

[britishrallying]

What if he wants the inlet connection outside? which I think he does, he likes to be differcult, does someone manufacture external inlet connections. End of the flex supplied is a standard 13a 3 pin plug! so need to change that to a 16 Amp 3 Pin Plug Blue.

Where the consumer unit is is about 5m away from where the inlet connect will be going, so quite handy.

Cheers,

Gaz

 

[Lectrician]

The one you link to complies to the BS, so must be IP44 which is ok for outside, however, it has no flap over the inlet, and the conduit entry is on the top....asking for trouble.

Mekkenize do some, need to search.....