questions to ask when getting quotes for mains pipe to house replacement

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Hi,

I've been asking around friends and colleagues for recommendations of local firms that do water supply pipe replacement (with moling), and got a 'half' recommendation from a colleague who said they did the job, but he wasn't happy that they hadn't insulated the pipe in the floor, and they had used only push-fit connectors. Are these two things red flags to avoid this firm?

Any questions I should ask them when they give the quote?

I'd like the very first joint the new incoming pipe connects makes, to be the most reliable there is, and to be able to turn off the water at this joint.
 
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The firm I used, not Hants, were keen to use the smallest bore pipe, not sure why maybe cost or ease of moling, but you need to research what size is best for your needs taking account of the property being domestic, but also noting a higher flow rate can benefit houses with multiple bathrooms etc.

Check about reinstatement of any paths etc as there will be a need to dig out holes to re orientate/check the mole head is going in the right direction. I found they dug more holes than they indicated would be necessary. Ensue they will check for services to avoid damage/cross over. Modern detection kit is very good, and they should have this as standard. But do your homework so you have an idea where there might be conflict between services.

As for pushfit, they used demountable connex and there have been no problems with it, in fact I have used it when refurbishing my own bathroom. It's a devil to demount after any period of time in place, though.

Blup
 

CBW

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Vast majority will use either a mdpe stopcock or a brass compression one and either are ok in terms of reliability.
 
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I installed a 25mm MDPE pipe, which I connected to a JG Speedfit MDPE Stop Tap 25 x 22mm. The stopcock converts MDPE to copper, hence this is efficient and cost effective as not many fittings.
25mm is normally the minimum pipe size, 28mm would have been better but I do not think I would have seen much benefit, it is also more expensive. https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/-/m...ets/270622SWLeadReplacement2022AWWebHires.pdf are the instructions I got from my water company, you should be able to get the same from yours.

I came across your other post regarding the leak, I am note sure about your full set-up but inside your property, it would be cost effective to lay the pipe on the wall at the back of the kitchen units at a skirting board level, it only needs to be buried when outside (the pipe would also be serviceable). The tricky bit is crossing from outside to inside the property.
 
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Thanks, I've got two quotes in, one requires the water board to come out and do an inspection and connection the other doesn't.

Quote 1:
£1500 + vat, requires inspection and connection by water board.
They came out and had a decent look at the house inside and out, and their quote is detailed and covers for unforeseen complications. I get a better vibe from them.

Quote 2:
£1000 + vat,
Doesn't require water board.
Gave quote based on some photos I sent.
This is the firm my colleague used and 'half' recommended, he wasn't happy that the pipe wasn't insulated in the floor, and that they used a pushfit joint to connect it.
 
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CBW

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Thanks, I've got two quotes in, one requires the water board to come out and do an inspection and connection the other doesn't.

Quote 1:
£1500 + vat, requires inspection and connection by water board.
They came out and had a decent look at the house inside and out, and their quote is detailed and covers for unforeseen complications. I get a better vibe from them.

Quote 2:
£1000 + vat,
Doesn't require water board.
Gave quote based on some photos I sent.
This is the firm my colleague used and 'half' recommended, he wasn't happy that the pipe wasn't insulated in the floor, and that they used a pushfit joint to connect it.
I’d go with who you feel happy with (sounds like number 1), £500 plus vat isn’t much for peace of mind.
 
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Where is the new pipe going to be installed? Still buried in the kitchen floor? Are you able to access the area through the backwall?
 
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Quote 2 doesnt require water board because they have approved the firm to self certify. And £500 cheaper. If the old lead main didn't freeze up, the plastic replacement wont.

Blup
 
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Thanks everyone, I went with quote 2, it's all done now, except unfortunately the moling company unluckily took out my electric mains cable (need electric company to come out and fix), and the drilling appears to have caused another leak in a nearby pipe that also goes into the kitchen floor - I've just made a separate post about this.
 
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