raising floor.

[waltzy]

Hi all.
Im having 2.8 meter high x 6 meter wide aliminum sliding doors fitted.
At the moment the opening hight is 2.91high.
Basically I need to raise the area were the bottom track will seat by 110mm,
I will take the finished level out into the gardem about a meter,
So area to fill will be 6m long 1 meter wide, it needs to be stong to take the weight of the doors glass etc.

Advice needed on the best way to lay this slab please.
Exsiting floor is a solid slab, not sure how thick tho.
Nb doors being fitted in 6 weeks, drying time of a 110mm slab ?

 

[noseall]

Presumably these doors are to sit in an opening in a building, yes?

Does this proposed opening in this building not have masonry beneath?

Or is it similar to say a barn or garage door type opening?

My guess is that you will need to dig a trench foundation and sit these doors on a wall so that (shallower, weather effected) ground movement has no influence upon the doors.

 

[waltzy]

Hi
Yes its an opening of the building to the outside garden
The exsiting floor is concrete, ill try to upload a pic but not sure how

 

[waltzy]

Hi iv uploaded a couple of pics for you to see, in my album.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you were able to cope with steps 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 then there's no reason why you can't cope with steps 9, 10 & 11 as well.

 

[ree]

Hi, I wish i was in France, in the hills near Ceret. Not to mention April in anywhere in France.

As you suggested, your best course is to pour a new slab on top of the old one. If your floor and walls are dry then, maybe, simply prep the surface with the French equivalent of SBR or a slurry of sand and cement.
Dont worry about the drying out time.

Set the new door back sitting on the old door line and, from that line, gradually slope the new slab out and down to the exterior.
I noticed a run-off trough crossing before the threshold - i'd suggest that you reproduce that feature or leave a pipe in place.

On the pics the threshold, or the ground, appears to be slanting from right to left - is that the case?

Who is going to be doing the concrete work?

What beautifully cut corner stones you have in the opening jambs.

 

[waltzy]

Thankyou very much.
Yes the threshold of the whole 6 meter width dose slightly fall right to left, my new slab will be straight, then as you say, once iv laid concrete for the track ill do a slight fall going away from the house, im on a very modest budget, so doing most of the work myself.
Iv just finished putting in a lime render (chaux) into the small gaps in the corner stone, they look great.
Cheers Rob

 

[ree]

If you need any suggestions regarding the concrete work come back here.

 

[noseall]

I personally believe the doors should sit on a wall with its own foundation. And said wall should be independent from outside floor finishes.

For instance - what happens to the doors should any work be carried out on the outside concrete?

Thermal break? Or is this not relevant?

 

[waltzy]

Thanks noseall, in a way its what im doing, im laying an independent slab, which will be 110mm thick it will be reinforced, the foundation its sitting on is the exsiting concrete floor, I will drill down into the exsiting slab and put still rods into the slab about 100mm deep these rods will be placed every 500mm apart and will protrude out the ground about 55mm I will then tie a rebar grid to these rods, put a slury down and then pour the concrete, once I have this slab which will be 6m in lenght and and 500mm wide, I will then lay another slab which will fall away from the house, this second slab will be independent from the first slab. Also the roof overhang means I very rarely get rain falling on the flat first slab
The first slab will be flat, the second slab will have a fall.
So the first slab really is your brick wall with a solid foundation.
Thanks again for the advice.

 

[ree]

If you are laying a slab to completely cover the in place interior concrete then:

No need for the rods or any re-bar. Mesh is also unnecessary. In residential work, mesh is only, sometimes, useful for a slab poured over hardcore to minimise flex, and plastic shrinkage.

A simple 100mm pour is sufficient for your floor.

No need to strengthen under the doors either: the jambs and head of the frame will be pinned to the masonry surround, the track takes very little weight, the head carries the weight.

If required, a saw can be run across to cut and release the inner slab from the outer slope.

I say the above but perhaps i misunderstand what exactly you intend to do, and to what dimensions?

 

[waltzy]

Hi ree
Inside I will be laying joists, then laying solid oak, insulation between the joists obviously.
The joists will seat 35mm above the slab this way the 20mm finish oak floor will butt up to the sliding doors, ie no lip. Ill take a photo and upload so you can see exactly what im trying to achive.

 

[waltzy]

Hi Ree
Iv uploaded 2 images
So the joist on the inside will take the finished floor, then if you can imagine the blank of wood butting up to the joists will be the slab, then the yellow spirt level will be the track that takes the doors, im inserting rods into the exsiting concrete just so it ties in the new slab over the old. Iv also added an image of the corner stone with the chaux in for you to look at.
Thanks