Ravenheat Combi boiler Condensing csi85t

[graham1963]

I have a 2 year old boiler, Ravenheat Combi boiler Condensing csi85t. It works for hot water. I doe not fire on on the timer or in on position, despite the red light is on in the on position, or on auto when timed to come on. I have found that I can get the heating to work by turning the mains power off and on again. The heating works perectly until turned off again.
I assume it is the timer. Has anyone come across this problem? The timer seems to be well hidden behind the mother board, so I don't really want to take out is absolutly necessary. Any help please. thank you

 

[graham1963]

Has anyone any ideas please

 

[corgiman]

yes get a new boiler tee hee

seriously ravenheats suck

sounds like the PCB to me, but to be honest I walk away from most ravenheats, not worth hassle

Tony will know wait till he sees it he will sort you out (agile)

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I have found that I can get the heating to work by turning the mains power off and on again.

Unlikely that its your timer then although they do go quite often so dont rule it out as a latent or future problem.

Get the CH thermistor changed. Green sensor on the right They cost about £15 quid. You have nothing to lose because these are considered to be a service item on most modern ravenheats. Recommended corgi job. If you do diy then do it with the system cold and follow instructions in the book.

This bit you can DIY
If your pcb is of the earlier type with 2 fuses [If its 2 year old it probably will be] you can prove that this is the problem by taking the lead of then putting it back on again. It will start up as you put it back on. Its low voltage so dont worry you wont get a belt off it.

 

[graham1963]

Thanks to both of you.

 

[Agile]

I dont know exactly what your problem is but would suspect the PCB from what you have said.

You can check the resistance of both NTC sensors with the boiler completely cold and see if they are both the same resistance.

You can remove the connector from the CH sensor and put a fixed resistor ( is it 10K cold? ) onto the plug to simulate the sensor. Thats cheaper at 3p and easier than changing a £15 sensor just in case.

If fiddling with the sensor does not indicate a fault then its possible that removing the PCB and cleaning the pins with switch cleaner or Carbon Tetrachloride will cure the problem.

Tony

 

[corgiman]

I dont know exactly what your problem is but would suspect the PCB from what you have said.

You can check the resistance of both NTC sensors with the boiler completely cold and see if they are both the same resistance.

You can remove the connector from the CH sensor and put a fixed resistor ( is it 10K cold? ) onto the plug to simulate the sensor. Thats cheaper at 3p and easier than changing a £15 sensor just in case.

If fiddling with the sensor does not indicate a fault then its possible that removing the PCB and cleaning the pins with switch cleaner or Carbon Tetrachloride will cure the problem.

Tony

told you

 

[graham1963]

thank you, much appiciated