Ravenheat CSI85 problems!

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I know it's one of worst boilers you can get but I was unfortuante to inherit it from previous owners of my house.

It had been behaving weird lately as I have noticed there's two different problems that keeps changing back and forwards...

the first problem is, if I leave the boiler switched off for few hours then switching it on, the pilot light does light up fine, then it clicks (presumely the main burner solenoid opens up) then it lights up the main burner it may be fine heats up either CH or DHW but if not it will just cuts off after few seconds of lighting up with a click coming from the solenoid which cuts off everything including the pilot light... it will just do this sequence repeatly until it may just shuts down with flame out warning!

The other problem which is the pilot light does light up but the main burner will not light up at all then it'll just shuts down with flame out warning!

Any ideas what the problem is?

Thanks
 
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Is it could be one of sensors that are faulty? because it seems that when it fires up it will contuine doing for a while perhaps 5 mins before it just shuts down then attempts to relight again but it will not fire up the main burner. I had to turn it off and let it cool for a while then it will fire up again but only for about 5 mins then it does this again! I am seriously thinking of pulling it off and just dump it! But cannot afford to buy a replacement boiler at the moment :( please help
 
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These are better boilers than the bad publicity they get :rolleyes:

They have an inherent fault with the fan modulation board, but your symptons don't really fit in with this.

As it could be several possible things, it would really need a competent engineer in front of it to diagnose the problem.

Last resort (maybe) could be to call Ravenheat in on a fixed price repair, if you know no-one locally you would trust.
 
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How old is the appliance? On older models the flame sensor wire (I believe) is routed in series, through the condensate trap. The idea was that if the trap blocked up the rise in condensate would earth the wire and prevent ignition. I seem to remember your symptoms on a CSI85 I looked at once; after a while it goes on the blink. If this wire does route through the condensate trap, get a CORGI registered engineer to disconnect it from the trap, insulate the eye end, and see if it sorts your problem out.
 
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One of the problems of the main burner not lighting had been sorted, the gas nozzle for the pilot light was partly blocked (one of the holes was blocked) now the pilot light burns better so the sensor heated up suffcently to cause the gas valve to open and main burner lights up.

But the problem with it cutting out remains :(

yes it is routed via condensate trap... but as an electrician myself, i have tested it to see if it goes to earth. There's nothing wrong with it... it had to be something else... I have tested all contacts all are ok as I'm getting all voltages what it is supposed to have...
 
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mmm i'll have a look at CH sensor tomorrow... hopefully it'll be faulty as it's easy to replace and that's the end of this fracas with that bloody boiler!
 
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I had the same problem and found that if i disconnect the white wire on top of the condensate trap the boiler ran fine. There seemed to be dirt build up on the screw. I cleaned the screw and put the wire back in place and had no problems since. :D
 
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CSI Ravenheat , csi = condensing system innovation , ???

Problems . detection & ignition lead can give agravation , ravenheat service engineer I dealt with by-pass the condensate trap connection used a lead that is fitted to the little star combi ?

Raven heat are one of the few (?) manus that use positive pressure to open the aps , they moved from Honeywell aps to huba due to agravation ??

Inner Flue pipe can suffer from corrosion causing problems with ignition ect

I assume the boiler uses a honeywell ignition pcb ?? I believe ravenheat do a fixed price repair ??
 
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Cuts out with Flame Failure!!!
Problem solved ... The fan would not run if it did was very slow, bearing problem so a little WD40 top and bottom bearing, you may have to move to start, after try a little spray lubricant but it difficult to get at. The fan is situated in the right hand TOP corner of the boiler so firstly you have to remove the outer front then remove the front of boiler, then the MOTOR of the FAN can be seen. On switch on he FAN will run for a 30 seconds or so but until the front of boiler is reassembled the flame will not fire up.
This has cured our problem. :( :) :)
 

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