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re skimmimg tips
- Thread starter stayclean
- Start date
There is nothing really to watch out for in getting that "pro finish" with multi-finish. You've got the idea, you've got the tools, you know what your looking for, so now it all comes down to experience. Like most things, the more you try, the better you should get.
Roughcaster.
Roughcaster.
give ceiling another coat of multi finish tonight, first of all i pva thursday night
and again priory to putting on multi finish tonight, still seem to dry rather fast i thought , maybe im applying it to thin , after this is now the third coat of multi finish, overall the finish is looking better
and again priory to putting on multi finish tonight, still seem to dry rather fast i thought , maybe im applying it to thin , after this is now the third coat of multi finish, overall the finish is looking better
Stayclean,
I can see what you're doing but I don't know why you're doing it. You are making so much extra hard work putting on the multi-finish the way you are,especially on a ceiling. It would even be a challenge for a "pro" to do it the way you're doing it.....Multi finish is normally applied in two coats, one straight after the other,that way you will get very little suction. Not one coat one day ,another coat the next, and another coat the next.
That is what's making it "dry rather fast"...... Try it this way..... Once you have the pva on and it's tacky, put on a coat of multi finish over the whole wall/ceiling,(1st coat). Once that coat is on, go back to the beginning of the wall/ceiling, and put another coat on right away,(2nd coat), then you will have a better chance to finish the plaster to a reasonable standard without pulling your arm out of joint.
Roughcaster.
I can see what you're doing but I don't know why you're doing it. You are making so much extra hard work putting on the multi-finish the way you are,especially on a ceiling. It would even be a challenge for a "pro" to do it the way you're doing it.....Multi finish is normally applied in two coats, one straight after the other,that way you will get very little suction. Not one coat one day ,another coat the next, and another coat the next.
That is what's making it "dry rather fast"...... Try it this way..... Once you have the pva on and it's tacky, put on a coat of multi finish over the whole wall/ceiling,(1st coat). Once that coat is on, go back to the beginning of the wall/ceiling, and put another coat on right away,(2nd coat), then you will have a better chance to finish the plaster to a reasonable standard without pulling your arm out of joint.Roughcaster.
Stayclean,
I can see what you're doing but I don't know why you're doing it. You are making so much extra hard work putting on the multi-finish the way you are,especially on a ceiling. It would even be a challenge for a "pro" to do it the way you're doing it.....Multi finish is normally applied in two coats, one straight after the other,that way you will get very little suction. Not one coat one day ,another coat the next, and another coat the next.
Roughcaster.
thanks for your help and advices , ive blocked up a toilet door using a timber frame and plaster board, am i ok to apply multi finsh straight on too plasterboard or do i need to pva it , any other advices would be helpfull
Hello again mate, 
Yes, you can put multi finish onto new plasterboard without the need for pva, but it does make things easier for a learner. Keep the plasterboard back 3 or 4 mm at least, to allow for the coats of plaster, and sometimes you might even have to chisel back the old doorframe a couple of mm just to set it back a bit too. Try a straight edge across the door opening from "wall to wall" to make sure you get a level plane before you plaster. When you block up and plaster over an old door opening, the last thing you want to see, is a bump where the door opening was.Tape the joints where the new board meets the old wall before you plaster. If you plaster onto the original wall to feather away the plaster, put pva onto that, especially if it has paint on it. All common sense really.
Roughcaster.
Yes, you can put multi finish onto new plasterboard without the need for pva, but it does make things easier for a learner. Keep the plasterboard back 3 or 4 mm at least, to allow for the coats of plaster, and sometimes you might even have to chisel back the old doorframe a couple of mm just to set it back a bit too. Try a straight edge across the door opening from "wall to wall" to make sure you get a level plane before you plaster. When you block up and plaster over an old door opening, the last thing you want to see, is a bump where the door opening was.Tape the joints where the new board meets the old wall before you plaster. If you plaster onto the original wall to feather away the plaster, put pva onto that, especially if it has paint on it. All common sense really.
Roughcaster.
I have never skimmed b4. But want to plater all my walls, and ceilings, I have read a bit a about how to do this, does it make a lot of mess or not,, and is pva needed as coat b4 any plastering is started.. What about sagging plater board( ceiling), can that be plastered over. Does pva help plaster to stick and stay. What is a smooth nice looking plater for a beginer to use.
Why are you hi-jacking everyone else’s posts & multi-posting the same questions! Read the forum rules; or better still read the archive posts first.
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