Replacement of MR16 transformers

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Yes the electronic transformer is now cheaper, but that was not why we started to use them, it all started to get better voltage regulation.

I think you are living in cloud cuckoo land if you really believe that. The emphasis in all manufacturing companies is to get the cost down.
 
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I think you are living in cloud cuckoo land if you really believe that. The emphasis in all manufacturing companies is to get the cost down.
That may be partially true but, as I've said, I feel sure that size/weight was another major consideration. It's unlikley that thinks like wallwarts or sensibly-portable laptop chargers would have been practicable if they had been based on 50Hz wire-wound transformers.

Kind Regards, John
 
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That may be partially true but, as I've said, I feel sure that size/weight was another major consideration. It's unlikley that thinks like wallwarts or sensibly-portable laptop chargers would have been practicable if they had been based on 50Hz wire-wound transformers.

Kind Regards, John

There are plenty of wallwarts in my house with 50Hz transformers in them. Old mobile phone chargers, 2 sets of Xmas lights, and 2 power supplies for DAB radios come to mind. The use of SMPS in wall warts is relatively recent and came about because governments think they save energy. They may be right but often don't save money as they sometimes fail and need replacing whereas transformer types rarely fail.
 
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There are plenty of wallwarts in my house with 50Hz transformers in them. Old mobile phone chargers, 2 sets of Xmas lights, and 2 power supplies for DAB radios come to mind.
Interesting. I have plenty of old power supplies/chargers of one sort or another that have 50Hz transformers, but I wouldn't want to try to cram that into a wallwart and ensure that the temperature remained under control.

I certainly have some for old printers, monitors and other things (even TVs), not to mention Christmas lights, which contain 50Hz transformers, but they are mainly far too big and heavy to be 'contemplatable' as a wallwart (and often get pretty hot)!

Kind Regards, John
 
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If you use just one driver for a few lights, make sure the cable lengths are identical, especially if you’re dimming. Your lights will be different brightnesses otherwise.

TBH, the varilight LED 12v drivers are cheap enough to go one each. Up to ten per dimmer. I recently replaced them all in a large house where it wasn’t practical to go GU10 or swap fittings.
 
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I will not say all MR16 12 volt Lamps are AC, there are exceptions as stated, and I will not claim the DC types will not work from a driver, they may well work from a driver, however some drivers advertise ripple free, which makes one think some are not ripple free and it would seem the ripple does cause a problem or the would not advertise as ripple free.

I looked for the Varilight data sheet it does not say if ripple free however the sheet does show it powering a LED strip, it does not show it powering a MR16 replacement package, they may work, but question is for how long?

If they fail within 6 months one can expect a client to ring up and complain, but if it lasts 12 months then likely they will just accept it, we saw with the BA22d CFL how these were rolled out with claims of low maintenance and running costs, however compared with other folded fluorescent lamps there output and life was rather poor. The 2D is also classed as a CFL but these work far better.

I personally and one can only work on personally as clients are unlikely to complain if it lasts 12 months, I have replaced 90% of the lights will LED, from replacement tube in a fluorescent fitting, to SES bulbs to GU10 and G5.3 12 volt, the 12 volt lamps are the only units to fail on me, I got some 0.58W units some GU10 and some G5.3 from Pound World, the GU10 worked until removed as they were simple not bright enough, the G5.3 all failed, to start with I blamed this on using AC not DC, but the replacement from Lidi clearly marked 50 Hz and have not failed with 4 powered from a 200 VA transformer I have another 3 spare 200 VA transformers so I would not now worry about using more 12 volt units in locations where there is some dampness.

However one thing I have realised you can float a quartz lamp in water and then allow to dry with no ingress of water, but the LED types are not so well sealed, so although the fitting may be suitable for bathroom or outdoor use, the question arises is the lamp also fit for use in damp or wet conditions?

So I have mounted lamps where they are protected and used 230 volt versions. There is no real need any more for 12 volt, it was used so the filament was thicker and the power supply was regulated but with LED that is not required. So once one has to start swapping transformers why bother with 12 volt?
 
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Varilight responded as follows:
1) The YT50LZ has a maximum load of 25 watts when used with LED lighting or 50 watts when used with halogen lighting.

2) We don't have any experience with the particular lamps but after doing some research we believe they will be suitable for use with our transformers. Our YT50LZ is suitable for running any 12V AC LED lighting.

So I figure the next model up (YT70LZ) which is rated up to 35w for LEDs would suit my purpose.
 
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Varilight responded as follows:


So I figure the next model up (YT70LZ) which is rated up to 35w for LEDs would suit my purpose.

I would not take too much notice of what they say. Manufacturers are not infrequently wrong.

This statement is clearly wrong for a start: "Our YT50LZ is suitable for running any 12V AC LED lighting." If a lamp is designed for 50Hz clearly it won't work properly or long on 30kHz.
Why don't you buy this: "https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLT50slash1.html" which you have been told twice is the correct component?
 
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