Replacing an exhaust system

[pipemajor]

Scene one, Act Three on my Picasso repairs.
I need to replace the centre & rear boxes on a Citroen Picasso, (same car as my other requests for help). I have the system and all the bits that are needed, what I don't have is know how (and someone young and strong) on making the job as easy as possible.
If someone would help with these questions.
1) Should I give the bolts at the manifold joint a good spray of WD40 prior to splitting the joint?
2) Is it best to jack the rear or front up for access and if it is the rear, where is the best position to take the weight. I will be using axle stands to secure the car.
3) Should I bolt the two parts together before offering it up, or is it better to secure the front to the manifold and then attach the back box in-situ?
4) Do I need a jointing compound to bond the joint?
I'm sure there are more important things to do in preparation and when doing the job, so please feel free to advise.
Thanks for any help offered.
PM
Is it safe to use the wide round bar shown in the pic, to jack up and rest on axle stands

Untitled

• pipemajor
• 11 May 2011
• 1

 

[Burnerman]

Definitely spray any bolts with the old WD - anything to help!
Be prepared to do some cutting though, if parts don't want to split.
Personally I jack the thing up at the back (the axle tube is fine, but mind the thinner torsion anti roll bar alongside).
I usually start with the front sections and work back, using exhaust cement on all joints. Sometimes I use elastic straps to hold the pipe or boxes in approximately the correct position - they are surprisingly heavy.
Make sure the sections will mate together before bashing on! Sometimes there are metal burrs where the compressing slots have been cut.
Don't fully tighten anything until everything lines up, and make sure the system can't knock on the body anywhere. Tighten any bolts or studs evenly.
Be lucky and be careful! Not the nicest of jobs but I don't mind doing them if its dry outside.
John

 

[Peter.N.]

... a squirt of WD40 into the rubber mountings will make them a lot easier to get off - and on again.

Peter

 

[pipemajor]

Thanks John and Peter for your very helpful advice. Really grateful.
PM

 

[Mursal]

I think the guys have it all covered. Just give yourself loads of time as it can be a very difficult job to get the old sections off.

And always use axle stands to support the car, as you probably know the jack is not safe enough for working underneath the car.

Work gloves (builders gloves) sometimes help to take the strain off the fingers for the heavier tasks. Especially in the cold weather

 

[HERTS P&D]

Don't forget eye protection for when you are under the car, one piece of rust/dirt in the eye ball will make the job 8hrs longer, having to go to hospital and waiting in A & E.

Andy

 

[pipemajor]

I thought I'd come back and say a big 'Thank You' to all who helped with advice on getting the Picasso back to road worthiness. The car passed its MOT and is on the road.
PM

 

[Burnerman]

Nice one and well done, PM.
Would you do the job again.....?
Last week I had a C3 Picasso hired on hol in Ibiza, and I wasn't sure what to expect.
Apart from its looks, it was an absolutely cracking vehicle, and 10/10 for Citroen on that one.
John

 

[bobtheboiler]

dont use axel stands on that bar as it looks like a tortion bar! check you cars manual for the correct jacking points,

how ever i would shy away from a jack and stand and get hold / borrow a set of home ramps to drive the front wheel up onto.

Spray the bolts with WD40 but be prepared to use a big long breakers bar or extendable wheel brase to get the nuts and bolts off, you will want to replace these bolts so you can just cut them off if required with a grinder and cutting disk..... or hack saw if you feeling energetic.

once you got the bolt off he cat then you can just push the rubber hangers off and bars (use WD40 or washing up liquid to loob it up) and then refit the new zorst in the same manner.

 

[HERTS P&D]

dont use axel stands on that bar as it looks like a tortion bar! check you cars manual for the correct jacking points,

how ever i would shy away from a jack and stand and get hold / borrow a set of home ramps to drive the front wheel up onto.

Spray the bolts with WD40 but be prepared to use a big long breakers bar or extendable wheel brase to get the nuts and bolts off, you will want to replace these bolts so you can just cut them off if required with a grinder and cutting disk..... or hack saw if you feeling energetic.

once you got the bolt off he cat then you can just push the rubber hangers off and bars (use WD40 or washing up liquid to loob it up) and then refit the new zorst in the same manner.

Hey Bob, he done the job over a week ago.

Andy