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Replacing outside lights - replace connector block?

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by simondyntDBeK, 28 Sep 2021.

  1. simondyntDBeK

    simondyntDBeK

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    I'm swapping out a couple of outside floodlights and this is what is inside one of the junction boxes. Would you replace the connector block? If so, what size connector block should I get? The wiring looks a bit worn too so it would be a good idea to re do the end too right?

    IMG_7039.jpeg
     
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  3. terryplumb

    terryplumb

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    Yes ,replace the connector block. If the conductors ends are not bright copper ,trim them back .
     
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  4. simondyntDBeK

    simondyntDBeK

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    Yeah they're a bit 'black' looking.

    What connector blocks should I look for? There seems to be quite a few sizes (amps) available?
     
  5. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    I think it's a 15amp connector block - may be called also be called 16amp or 20amp.
     
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  6. terryplumb

    terryplumb

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    16 amp
     
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  7. simondyntDBeK

    simondyntDBeK

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    Cheers all!
     
  8. 333rocky333

    333rocky333

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    Likely the screws wont move, you may need to cut the wires close to the connecter, its always best to restrip them anyway, they look long enough
     
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  9. davelx

    davelx

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  11. simondyntDBeK

    simondyntDBeK

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    Yeah I did wonder about that. The rust means water right? The cables pull in and out really easy which can’t be good. Will look at replacing the junction boxes too. Ta.
     
  12. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    5amp connector blocks. The rust is a result of the present connectors being cheap plated steel. Look for solid brass one to replaces them.
     
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  13. opps

    opps

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    The Wiska boxes recommended are great. To prevent the cables being pulled out you need the correct compression glands. Someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to point you in the right direction.
     
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  14. 333rocky333

    333rocky333

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    The wiska box in the link does not appear designed to use glands
     
  15. mr_chaela

    mr_chaela

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    I notice the box suggested by davelx and probably the one pictured in the OP has a snap-on lid. I always thought that the internals anything containing live terminals had to accessible only with the use of a tool. What do the regs say about this. I'm not a sparky, just interested to know.
     
  16. opps

    opps

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    Good spot. I have only ever used the Wiska boxes that accept the glands. Great boxes.

    These are the ones I have used

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_I...oxes_Adaptable_Moulded/index.html#Wiska_Boxes

    They accept glands and have in built screws for the lid. They are supplied with a bracket that is screwed to the wall. The box clips on to the bracket, meaning that you don't end up with screw holes in the box.
     
  17. 333rocky333

    333rocky333

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    Reg 416.2.4
    Never used them myself but once snapped on, they may need prising off with a tool.
    Or possibly they rely on the user, if using mains voltage, to use suitable IP rated terminals inside, therefore although you can access the box, any live parts are further encased likely by connecters and there insulating material.
    Similar to say a ceiling rose, where you can unscrew the cover by hand, but will find the brass terminals encased so as to be untouchable, for this reason ceiling roses are listed as exempt from 416.2.4

    Something like an uninsulated bare copper busbar enclosure, would need to be accessible with a tool as per regulation 416.2.4
     
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