Replacing single electric oven - Confused.

[mcalpinep]

Hi, I am replacing a single electric oven (Candy F211 - rated 2200W) with a Belling XOU178 (also single electric rated 2060 W) - The candy was connected via a normal 13 A 3-pin plug to a double socket - I also have a gas hob which is also connected to this double socket - The manual for the Belling states that the oven MUST NOT (their words) be connected via a 3-pin 13 amp plug , why not if it was Ok for the Candy??. Ay help would be greatly apprecicated.
Ps , The double socket is connected via a 30 amp fuse at the consumer unit, this also connects all sockets on the ground floor of my house.

 

[plugwash]

i can't see any reason not to connect it via a socket if its only that low a rating

you can use a fcu on the ring to connect it though if you have other high drain appliances you may be pushing it regarding total load on the ring especially with that ring running all downstairs

 

[mcalpinep]

Thanks for the info, I don't have any other high drain running on the downstairs ring (lights TV HiFi ,unless a Kettle is conted as high drain), can U tell me what a FCU is ??.

 

[plugwash]

kettles are fairly high but not hugley high
i was more thinging of stuff like wasshing machines dishwashers tumble dryers etc

click me

you can get ones without a flex outlet at all ones with a front flex outlet and ones with a side flex outlet

 

[mcalpinep]

There's a washing machine, but it has a seperate FCU (3 seperate supply connections into the FCU , 1 load out). I may be wrong about the 30A ring fedding all ground floor, there are 3 x 30A fuses at the consumer unit - I guess 1 may also feed the kitchen seperately. Does it appear that the double socket feeding the oven/hob is a spur off the ktichen ring ?

 

[plugwash]

the easiest way to find out what is on which cuircuit is to pull the fuse for one cuircuit at a time

if there is only one cable there then yes it is a spur

you are not supposed to put two items on a spur without haveing a fuse first in line

one option is to use a grid plus click me box with a fuse a double pole switch and a cord outlet

then wire as follows
[code:1]
.---13A fuse------------------------------------------.
| | |
L | .--------. .--------L L
supply DP switch cord outlet oven double socket
N | '--------' '--------N N
| | |
'-----------------------------------------------------'
[/code:1]

 

[securespark]

A very good reason for not wiring it the way you want is that the instructions advise otherwise. If you install against the instructions, you risk invalidating the wty.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

..(3 seperate supply connections into the FCU , 1 load out)....

 

[mcalpinep]

ban-all-sheds, Many question marks... I'll describe how this FCU is connected - The FCU isolates 1 single socket under the kitchen sink into which is plugged the washing mashine, there are 3 seperate 'supply' (2.5mm) connections into the FCU and 1 single 'load' out.... Does this sound nonsense to you ?.

 

[mcalpinep]

A very good reason for not wiring it the way you want is that the instructions advise otherwise. If you install against the instructions, you risk invalidating the wty.

Yeah I guess it will, I simply wanted to find out if it was a safe way to connect the oven.

 

[AdamW]

ban-all-sheds, Many question marks... I'll describe how this FCU is connected - The FCU isolates 1 single socket under the kitchen sink into which is plugged the washing mashine, there are 3 seperate 'supply' (2.5mm) connections into the FCU and 1 single 'load' out.... Does this sound nonsense to you ?.

Perhaps someone has spurred off the FCU, the FCU being on the ring main? That would explain it.

 

[mcalpinep]

ban-all-sheds, Many question marks... I'll describe how this FCU is connected - The FCU isolates 1 single socket under the kitchen sink into which is plugged the washing mashine, there are 3 seperate 'supply' (2.5mm) connections into the FCU and 1 single 'load' out.... Does this sound nonsense to you ?.

Perhaps someone has spurred off the FCU, the FCU being on the ring main? That would explain it.

Thanks for the info, there are so many sockets/FCU's etc in my Kitchen .. it's hard to track them all You've probably guessed I know only the basics so I am looking for the simplest way to connect this cooker.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Simplest way is to put a plug on it. Get in touch with the manufacturers technical dept - as them to explain why a 9A appliance "MUST NOT" be connected via a 13A plug.

If they say it can, get it in writing. If they can't give you a reason, do it anyway, but be prepared to do what they say if it breaks during the guarantee period, before you call the service guy out.

AdamW's theory makes sense, the FCU is directly on the ring, and someone has run a spur from it. Well - let's hope it's that, and not that it is already on a spur, and then 2 others run from it. You should disconnect the supply cables (turn off power, disconnect and separate, put choc-blocks on the ends, turn power back on) and check that 2 of them are still live..

 

[mcalpinep]

Simplest way is to put a plug on it. Get in touch with the manufacturers technical dept - as them to explain why a 9A appliance "MUST NOT" be connected via a 13A plug.

If they say it can, get it in writing. If they can't give you a reason, do it anyway, but be prepared to do what they say if it breaks during the guarantee period, before you call the service guy out.

AdamW's theory makes sense, the FCU is directly on the ring, and someone has run a spur from it. Well - let's hope it's that, and not that it is already on a spur, and then 2 others run from it. You should disconnect the supply cables (turn off power, disconnect and separate, put choc-blocks on the ends, turn power back on) and check that 2 of them are still live..

I am reasonably technically minded, i.e I know 240 V will have the wife checking the insurance policy , I will test the FCU as you describe ..... I take it all I need is a circuit tester (which I have).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I take it all I need is a circuit tester (which I have).

Don't know what you mean by "circuit tester". If it's a neon screwdriver, then it's better than nothing, but there are strongly held opinions amongst the glitterati here which are basically that it isn't a great deal better than nothing.

Something like this is better:

or just a basic multimeter, which you can pick up in Maplin, or even (wash my mouth) a shed, for £10-20, which if you think about it is less than the savings you're making by installing the oven yourself.

Don't forget - while the spur is disconnected, go round and find which sockets are on it, for future reference.