Replacing with SuperSwitch Central Heating Programmer with Drayton LP711

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@stem

I too am amazed & worried that this was not mentioned in my combination of research and getting advice from "Drayton Technical Staff" and electricians. Especially with the level of detail i gave them re boiler etc similar to what i originally started with this post along with pictures.

@stem = i think you would do well to set up a chargeable consultancy. Your advice has been, by far, the most professional and comprehensive that i have come across...

Thank you again
 
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True you could, but I wonder why anyone would do. What's the point in going to the extra trouble and cost to install and wire in a contactor when there are many devices available off the shelf perfectly suitable for this application without any additional extras. It's adding additional complication for no benefit.
 
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True you could, but I wonder why anyone would do. What's the point in going to the extra trouble and cost to install and wire in a contactor when there are many devices available off the shelf perfectly suitable for this application without any additional extras. It's adding additional complication for no benefit.
Many immersion heater elements are switched via contactors (single phase/3 phase)
If the OP is adamant on using the LP711 then yes it can be done.
Hardly expensive purchasing a contactor/enclosure, not exactly rocket science either.
 
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True you could, but I wonder why anyone would do. What's the point in going to the extra trouble and cost to install and wire in a contactor when there are many devices available off the shelf perfectly suitable for this application without any additional extras. It's adding additional complication for no benefit.
But you advised the use of a contactor in a post today regarding a 2kw heater?
 
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JohnD

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I wonder what word we should use to describe the vastly greater number that don't have a contactor.
 
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But you advised the use of a contactor in a post today regarding a 2kw heater?
And why not? 'Horses for courses' ;)

In the other post the OP specifically wanted to use a controller that he had chosen and specified (Nest) probably because of the features it gives, so the appropriate solution was offered.

In this thread the OP's didn't specify a particular product, they just wanted a timer and as there are many available without the additional cost / complication of a adding a contactor, the advice given was different.

I don't have fixed solutions, but always try to give the best advice I can tailored to their requirements of each person, that is clear and appropriate for their application. I'm sorry if you don't see it the same.

Many immersion heater elements are switched via contactors (single phase/3 phase)
I've installed a few myself in industry, but not seen any in a domestic setting, because it's not necessary.

Hardly expensive purchasing a contactor/enclosure,
In this case it would add £50 or so to the cost unnecessarily.

not exactly rocket science either.
If might be easy for you, but this is a DIY forum.
 
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I wonder what word we should use to describe the vastly greater number that don't have a contactor.
Many many many.
I suggested a solution in order for the LP711 to be used in conjunction with a 3kw immersion heater.
It’s neither expensive nor is it rocket science, it appears that Stem has now adopted this method as he advised another member earlier today to use a relay/contactor in order to switch a 2kw oil filled electric heater, this was a thread in the ‘appliance’ section of the forum.
 
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In the other post the OP specifically wanted to use a controller that he had chosen and specified (Nest) probably because of the features it gives, so the appropriate solution was offered.
.
The OP in the other post is YOU.;)
You have many many many usernames Stem.;)
 
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OK - well - this post has been a bit busier than i anticipated!
What i've done since has been to obviously return the Drayton LP711 and now have ready to deploy, a TimeGuard NTT08 which should firstly, solve the issue which the other user had re switch rating. This is a 16A, whilst the PulsaCoil III has a 15a spec.

I find i have more confidence in the advice dispensed here than that given to me by electricians i have called in my area so...

Included are

1) pics from before - again with original setup
N in/out= Neutral (Blue) - and black
L in = red
L out (ch only) = (no wiring)
L out = brown wire
Not used
thermostat2.jpg

2) pics of wiring
thermostat3a.jpg

3)pic of TimeGuard NTT08 with Left to Right labelling (as per instructions sheet)
L = Live Supply
N1 = Neutral Supply
N2= Neutral supply to immersion heater
L1 Switched LIve to immersion heater
E = Earth Continuity


Based on 3) - i would assume that my configuration would be

L = Red
N1 = Black
N2 = Blue
L1 = Brown
E = both respective yellow/green earth


Cheers
 

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