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Repointing Door Lintel

Discussion in 'Building' started by imroberts, 27 Nov 2016.

  1. imroberts

    imroberts

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    So after some water ingress from above my front door, I've been out to investigate and, quite frankly, I'm amazed it hasn't leaked before!

    So, above the door there is a row of horizontal bricks, above which appears to be two rows of tiles... and then some pointing at 45deg on top. The bottom row of tiles appear to be full tiles which I assume protrude the full depth of the wall and the top row appear to have been cut in half as they only protrude backwards about 3-4 inches (I know this because they are completely loose and can be pulled out!)

    First of all, I don't understand how any of this actually supports the wall above? Every house on the street has the same structure so I presume it's fine but it baffles me really!

    Secondly, I need to do something! So...

    1) The bricks appear to be solid but the pointing is completely shot as demonstrated by the pictures. It looks like the entire house, including this, has been "buttered up" to a fairly poor standard in the past and this is flaking off largely.

    2) The tiles appear to be largely loose as the mortar is no longer adhering to them. I've attached a picture with one of them removed to demonstrate. (I didn't want to remove them all at once as I wasn't sure how much they would be supporting, but they're all pretty loose)

    I propose to grind out the mortar from the bricks above the door, and the first few courses above, and repoint. (I want to do the rest of the house at some point but that can wait until later!) How deep should I grind out?

    The tiles obviously also need to come out, have the mortar removed, and be refitted. Firstly, how many am I safe to remove at once? Obviously the more I take out the easier it will be to work, but I don't want to risk anything structurally!

    What cement mix should I use for a) the pointing, b) the tapered "run-off" on top?

    Anything else I should be aware of?
     

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  3. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Rake it out to 25mm. Repoint in 1:4 sand cement and make sure to compact and iron the surface well, to form the weathering face. Likewise for the fillet on the tile crease.
     
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  4. theprinceofdarkness

    theprinceofdarkness

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    Looking at the pics, your " lintel" (brick arch) has dropped. I would make a hooky thing, bit of coat hanger wire straight with a 20 mm right angle bend at one end and try and pull the loose sections of tiles and mortar out. Give the tiles a good cleaning before re-use, they won't soak up water so let them drip dry or you will get mortar stains down their front edge.# Frank
     
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  5. imroberts

    imroberts

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    Getting the tiles out won't be an issue, I managed to pull out two completely yesterday and the rest seem pretty loose. I'm thinking I'll be able to clear out all the rubbish and probably get a neater finish if I remove all the tiles at once - is that safe to do or are the bricks directly above likely to drop down?

    I'd agree that the brick arch has dropped - though just on one side I think as it's not quite horizontal anymore. What actually supports that? Surely it's not just sat on top of the doorframe? The reason I ask is I'm due to have the door replaced in January and don't want the whole thing falling out when the door is removed! If I'm grinding out and repointing the bricks anyway, is it worth trying to straighten it up at the same time?
     
  6. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    You're wasting your time then.

    Those headers are sitting on the frame and will move when the frame is replaced.

    You need to install a lintel, else you are guaranteed that the bricks will become looser with every bang of the door once a new frame is installed. Your installer should have advised you of this.
     
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  8. theprinceofdarkness

    theprinceofdarkness

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    Brick mortar is just stabilzed sand, it was never mean't to glue bricks upwards. The brick arch is just jammed in between the wall ends.
    Frank
     
  9. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    The OP does not have an arch.
     
  10. noseall

    noseall

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    Here's me thinking large expanses of masonry could be 'self-arching'.:whistle:
     
  11. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    The money you save on lintels may pay for your annual jollies abroad, but I'm not sure I fully agree with your construction methods. :cautious:
     
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