Repositioning a mounting box

[Sarah101]

I would be grateful if anyone would be able to tell me how to reposition a mounted light switch. Having plastered our attic we have how discovered that our light switches and double switches are too recessed into the wall. Would anyone know how to reposition them so that they are more flush with the now plastered wall. Many thanks, Sarah101

 

[RF Lighting]

Why do you need the boxes nearer the surface?

Is it because the accessory screws will not reach the back box?

If so, just buy some longer screws, or fit some extention studs


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Fixings_Index/Plate_Screws_1/index.html

 

[Sarah101]

The mounting boxes where chased onto the brick wall. Then the plaster board was cut around it. A friend plastered the wall but did not fill gap between the mounting boxes and the plaster board. I now have gaps between the mounting box and the wall which I have to fill and paint over. The only problem is that when the swith covers are put back on they will not be flush with the plastered wall - the mounting boxes are fitted too far into the wall. Can I bring the light switch boxes and the double socket boxes further out from the brick wall to be more in line with the finished plastered wall?

 

[davy_owen_88]

Yes you can bring the back boxes out further, but as RF said, buying longer screws is all you need to do. Moving the back boxes further out will not make any difference if the switch/sockets aren't sitting flush with the wall, that's due to the plaster being uneven.

 

[JonB]

Sarah do you mean they have cut the plasterboard around the swich & socket fronts.

 

[Sarah101]

Yes, they have cut around the switch and socket fronts, leaving at least 1-2 inch gaps around each front. I now have to bring the boxes out further, fill in around them then put the socket fronts back on.

 

[plugwash]

if i were you i'd replace with deeper boxes rather than attempting to pack behind the existing ones. Then fill arround the boxes and refit the fronts.

 

[Chri5]

if I've read this correctly, even if the back boxes are moved forward towards the plaster line your going to have a 1" gap all the way round to fill.

I'd pad out any gap between plaster board and brick / true wall surface and fill the surrounding area.

If you use another back box (with some grease on it) as a template for your filling then you should end up with a 1" or so of plaster matched to the profile of the original back box, which will simply be a deeper recess and require long screws to fix the switch plate on with.

Clear as mud?

 

[JohnD]

clingfilm can be used round the box shaped former that you will be filling to. It will be possible to remove the former without it being stuck to the plaster.

 

[Sarah101]

Many thanks for all of the advise.

Plugwash - where can you get deeper boxes - I thought that they were all standard depths?

Chri5 & JohnD - Would I be right in understanding that it would only be the switch plate that I reposition? How would I make sure that it is tightly fixed on to the mounting box firmly using screws? Would the plaster be strong enough to hold it in place?

Guys - I am sure by now you all realise that I am completely green about all of this!!

 

[JohnD]

the box is held in place by being screwed to the wall.

you can get metal mounting boxes 16 mm deep, 25mm, 35mm and 47mm

The faceplate does not have to fasten to the front of the box, the box can be recessed, but in that case the cavity must be fully enclosed by a fireproof material e.g. brickwork or plaster.

The faceplate is screwed to the mounting box and grips tightly against the wall.

 

[C&GStudent]

Cut out a plasterboard square, like a picture frame.

Gob it in with some bonding plaster.

plaster/skim etc. over your new square.

 

[Chri5]

Cut out a plasterboard square, like a picture frame.

Gob it in with some bonding plaster.

plaster/skim etc. over your new square.

That achieves the same as simply plastering / bonding with a back box as a template / mould, as already suggested and since the area behind the board would have to be padded with bonding (to prevent the section of plasterboard being pulled in to the wall when the f/plate screws are tightened) is a poor, long winded alternative.

 

[JonB]

I do most humbly apologize for trying to put a bit of humour into the posting, It appears some take Racial abuse a bit to seriously, it was only a bit of FUN.
JonB


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Moderator's note:

I will tidy away the other posts

Mod Rupert
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[C&GStudent]

Cut out a plasterboard square, like a picture frame.

Gob it in with some bonding plaster.

plaster/skim etc. over your new square.

That achieves the same as simply plastering / bonding with a back box as a template / mould, as already suggested and since the area behind the board would have to be padded with bonding (to prevent the section of plasterboard being pulled in to the wall when the f/plate screws are tightened) is a poor, long winded alternative.

Still bitter perchance?