Ridges

[diydick]

does anyone know what is the correct procedure for bedding and pointing ridges?

thanks alot!

 

[Thermo]

are you doing an entire ridge from new or just replacing a few in an existing run?

 

[legs-akimbo]

If its a full run lay down the ridge and score a mark on either side for a marker for a run of compo, lay down the ridge and remove excess mortar and point up neatly, most important is to have solid beds between tiles. A drop of mortar a bit of broken tile on top a bit more mortar ..........untill the opening is full ......start the above process again!
At one time you could get a bucket with a v cut int the bottom that would sit on the ridge perfectly, brilliant for ridgeing but dont know if they are made anymore.
Carefull that no mortar runs down the roof cus it stains ,particually on slates.

Regards

Robbo.

 

[diydick]

Thanks Robbo,
what mix would you recommend for bedding and more importantly pointing?
Cheers

 

[chappers]

4:1 will be fine as Rob says don't make your mix too wet or it will run down your slates and make a mess.
Rob you can still get roofing buckets bought one the other day from Asphaltic

 

[masona]

You may find it easier to make a framework approx 8' long, 2"x1" on each side with a curve plywood shape on each end, then cement to the 2"x1" then bed the ridges. This will give you a straight line and the correct cement bedding level.

 

[legs-akimbo]

Have seen that done on hips masona, but on a ridge it does not really matter if the run is perfectly straight from end to end anyway as it cant be seen, just follow the ridge board, just so long as they are level and if you run a mortar line to the inside of your score mark the ridge will bed down pretty much flat to the tile/slate so no real adjustments to keep them level and the majority of the mortar then is inside the ridge which will hold the ridge tile for ever and a day.....well nearly!

 

[shaggy]

Have you guys ever used the dry-ridge system? I've done a few and it's brilliant; quick and easy with no humping buckets of mortar onto the roof. The finished job looks neat and you can have a continuous vent the full length of the ridge. It has to be designed to suit the tile type obviously.

 

[masona]

Have you guys ever used the dry-ridge system ?

I do know about them but never done one yet From the drawing I take it that you nail the batten on the centre of the point or does the angle timber come with it ? What I also like about them is they are ventilated as well. Are the ridge tiles plastic ?

 

[shaggy]

I've only used the Redland system and done three jobs with it. If it's a trussed roof with no ridge board then the first thing to fix is a stainless-steel ridge batten fixing strap at the apex of each truss. The strap forms a flat with spikes for the ridge batten to sit on, then the ridge batten is hammered down onto the spikes and the strap is wrapped around the batten and nailed. The ridge batten itself is not angled as it sits on the flat formed by the strap. The ridge tiles are concrete the same as normal and the only difference is they have a hole each end through which the stainless-steel nail is used to fix them to the ridge batten. The nail passes through a neoprene washer to seal the hole. It really is a no-maintenance fix and there is no chance they will ever lift from high winds.
Once you've used it you never want to bed another ridge tile.

 

[diydick]

how do you experts get the pointing so smooth if you use a 4/1 mix,would you add silver sand? I always struggle to achieve a smooth finish,please help!

 

[--tom]

Some good info. on this thread.
DIY, dont worry about the sand, just mix a semi-dry S&C mix, it will be much easier to point up and wont give shrinkage problems.
As a matter of detail: if you have established lines for pointing, then tape along these lines with painters or duct tape and when the S&C is pointed up, remove the tape and you will have a perfectly straight line.
No matter what your roof materials use roof ladders to protect the material and for safety. Also tie in your access ladder at the eaves - eye screws to fascia or rafter tails will work.

 

[legs-akimbo]

God above........ tape for getting a straight line on pointing 30foot up in the air, bit over zealous dont you think?