Satchwell valve wiring help please -SOLVED

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Hello,
I have this Satchwell valve installed in my CH system. Yes, I know its old, but it works and I have no need to replace it - hopefully!!

I am trying to work out the wiring on the valve. I assume two of the wires operate the spring return valve(?) and the other two are a switch which closes when power is applied. The wire colours are: White, Yellow, Orange, Blue and green/yellow(earth).

Now that i decided to stick my camera under the valve to see what model it is, I find the following 'wiring diagram'. This diagram does not show the orange wire, but the bit that worries me: the white and yellow wires appear to be used to open and close the valve - therefore it is not spring return. I hope I am wrong about this.

Does this mean I have totally understood the valve wiring? I was hoping to implement the new wiring with a new controller (Danfoss TP9), not sure if this is now possible.

Do you know what this valve is and what the wires correspond to?

I have posted in this forum before about this valve and my new controller. Some people suggested the model of the valve, but google returns nothing.
 
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Yellow drive open

White drive shut

Its a drive open drive shut valve mate, not a sprung return.

think its an SD2301

Might be out of your depth by the sounds of it so pass the wiring onto someone who knows

Stan
 
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kevplumb,
Do you mean live when valve open, not live when valve shut?
 
Which of these diagrams would be the preferred way to wire my central heating?

Option 1
option1.gif


Option 2
option2.gif


I am fully aware that this solution will not give me independent control of the hot water.

I am doing this as currently the TP9 controller works wonderfully with the central heating, but the hot water only wire was never connected. The problem is that now its summer, we have no hot water unless the central heating is switched on. Not been in the house long enough to notice last summer!!
 
You need to be looking at option 2

However if you are going to all the trouble for a crappy old valve why not just replace it with a new spring return valve which will last alot longer.

Infact why not get someone in and have the system sorted so you can get independant control of both because your waters gonna be bloody hot in the winter.

Stan
 
pannierstan,
Thaks for the info. I take your point about the water being hot in winter, we have been OK with it for the last 6 months though. I think the stat on the boiler in about halfway, so the water is OK and rads are not as hot as they could be - this is not a bad thing when you have a 16 month old 'exploring'!!

In time I want to get the old valve removed and either a 3-port or 2 x 2-port valves installed so I have full control over HW and CH. I know however that this will cost money and thats something I am not flush with right now. The priority right now is to have hot water this summer without having the heating on - if option 2 is the way forward than thats what will happen.

Thanks again for you input.
 
Many thanks to everyone who helped with this issue. I wired everything up as shown in diagram 2 last night and is works! I have a tank of lovely hot water this morning without heating the whole house...
 

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