Seal off self-boring w/machine tap/valve

J

jonathen

Hi all,

I've recently had to buy a new washing machine. When I removed the old one, I found that the ancient hot valve/tap thing that the hot water pipe connected to was leaking. So I replaced it with a similar one - it's a self-bore valve with a turn-tap on the top - so it's kind of T shaped - looks like this one:
http://www.choiceful.com/disprod.php?pId=21040&zanpid=1170378530907756546

I attached it fine and no more leaks. But then the new washing machine came and lo and behold, it appears new machines no longer use the hot feed! So now I have a defunct valve sitting there with no pipe connected to it. This is probably fine, but it makes me nervous of possible leaks in the future.

Is there something I can get to screw to the pipe-end of the valve to seal it off, or if not, what can I do to securely seal the hole in the copper pipe? A friend suggested a Y shaped connector to connect both hold and cold to the single cold connection on the machine, but I don't want to do that - I want to cease using the hot and seal it off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated :)

Jon
 
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if you want to get rid of them both isolate the hot supply and drain the pipe, cut the pipe before the valves and fit one of these
untitledlk.jpg

15mm compression brass stop end.
 
J

jonathen

Thanks for the suggestion - but if I understand you correctly I'd have to remove the valve, cut the pipe just above the valve and seal it off with the brass stop end? The trouble is, the valve is half-way down the pipe and this pipe extends from the boiler above, down into the floor and into the next room for the central heating, so I can't cut it there. Is there something like this brass stop which I can just connect to the screw-end of the valve?
 
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use a 3/4" brass cap end.

caps.jpg


but if your never going to use them again i would get them taken out and that section of pipe changed as them self cutting tap are not the best idea.
 
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If you want to get rid of the valve, a burst pipe repair kit would do the job. They are usually about 3 or 4 inches long. Isolate water supply, cut pipe at the hole made by the valve and spring the ends apart to slide the repair section over. Slide it back to centralise over your cut and wind up the compression joints either end - Job done!

You might be able to get away with a slip compression coupler, or filing the stop out of an ordinary coupler, but the self-cutting valve may have distorted the pipe around the hole too much for the olives to seal.

If you fancy soldering, you might be able to use a yorkshire slip coupler in the same way (they are a bit longer than end feed couplers)
 
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That's the one.
Usually available for both 15mm and 22mm pipe. I suspect yours will be 15mm, as that's what most self-cutting valves fit.
15mm fittings also usually fit old 1/2" pipes without any problems.
 
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3/4" cap end.
make sure you have a 3/4" rubber washer that gos in the bottom of the cap.
 
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Why not just put a double ended compression fitting inline after cutting the pipe?

Should take 10 mins (ok, it will actually be a few hours of swearing & getting wet :D )
 

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