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Shelf hanging disaster

Discussion in 'DIY Disasters' started by garash, 30 Jul 2019.

  1. garash

    garash

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    Using standard white board and L shape brackets I have for the first time been unable to complete the job and in fact have likely created a problem. The wall is stud/false made of cement? ( the dust is grey but could be plaster?). It seems to be something like 1 to 2 inches thick. Immediately behind is a solid brick wall. I first tried traditional rawlplug and screws which were 1 3/4 inch long but they just fell out of the holes with the shelf attachedThen I tried Toggle bolts. I have drilled the holes slotted in the toggles, screwed the brackets up really tight but there was still movement. As well as not being able to tell if there is any space at all between both walls for the toggles to sit, I could not understand why they remained visible at the front edge of the hole? I thought they should go back to where the gap is so they can open up?. The size of these are M4 x 50mm with a fitting clearance of 9-20mm. Any suggestions how to remedy this taking into account the size of the wretched holes I now have!!! Thank you.
     
  2. Lower

    Lower

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    Drill into the brick and use longer screws.
     
  3. garash

    garash

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    Yes I have thought of that although I would have to choose a different place as I don't think you can get rawlplugs half inch across lol
     
  4. Lower

    Lower

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    Move the shelf brackets to an area of the wall where you haven't drilled oversized holes and then fill the holes you have drilled.

    Alternatively, use resin fixings if you need to use the holes you've created.
     
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  5. jonbey

    jonbey

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    If you have a long plug into the block wall then the big hole won't matter, will it? If not entirely hidden by the bracket you can add some filler.
     
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  6. foxhole

    foxhole

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    You can only use toggle bolts with a cavity which you said you did not have?
     
  7. gasbanni

    gasbanni

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    As already said use longer screws put your plugs on the end of the screws and hammer them in to the wall ....undo the screws do the same again with a fresh plug on your screws ......when you finally screw the tight they will hold ....superbly.
     
  8. daggermark

    daggermark

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    Talking of which, reminds me of a 'handyman' that my mate recruited to add some shelves to his kitchen on a stud wall. He put them up with nylon plasterboard plugs and didn't mention anything about how much weight the shelf would hold... my mate was rudely awoken in the night by the sound of smashing jars and a floor covered in rice and pasta sauces.
     
  9. Chud

    Chud

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    It wasn't Handy Andy was it?

    Still makes me ROFL seeing the faces when that happened on Changing Rooms...
     
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  10. martin hill

    martin hill

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    Hi There My chimney breast is batterned and boarded with a inch gap between borad and breast. Wanted to put up tv bracket but boarding not strong enough. Soloution was to mark out the holes for the bracket ( you can do the same ) Cut out the marked holes the size of a toilet roll tube back to the brick. Slip in a slice of the toilet roll tube and then fill that with a rapid hardening cement. When dry a thin coat of fine filler and sand and make good. Now use framehammer fixings.
     
  11. foxhole

    foxhole

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    seems long winded approach , a simple pipe section would act as a spacer , hammer fixings have little pull strength,[little more than ribbed nails in a nylon sleeve], intended from stress across them.
     
  12. martin hill

    martin hill

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    It was but the tv bracket had an av bracket on the botton with v-box so i did go over the top. I got some rawplug ones with nice big ridges and fins. Still going strong too.
     
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