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single skinned wall

Discussion in 'Building' started by paddy1, 5 Jan 2006.

  1. paddy1

    paddy1

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    Finally about to convert my single skinned utility room to be part of my kitchen and remove the doors and frames which currently divif=de the two rooms.

    Here are my plans and questions if someone can give me a few pointers it would be appreciated.

    1. line the walls with a PVC membrane.
    2. Build a 4" X 2" timber frame on all of the walls with the footer lying on a PVC membrane.
    3. Attach 4" polystyrene insulation directly on to the PVC membrane.
    4. Attach palsterboard to the stud frame and dry line.

    If anything here seems wrong please point it out.
    Also is there any benefit in using foil backed plaster board and also what thickness of board should i use.

    My final question is to do with the ceiling. Currently the plaster board is attached so that it is running at an angle with the roof. I intend to keep with the design of the existing ceiling but am wondering what the best way to insulate it is. Is it good enough to attach insualtion to the back of the plaster board?

    Thanks for any help.

    Also if anyone knows of any good websites showing the best ways to construct an internal frame/ constructing stud walls then it would be appreciated.
     
  2. jbonding

    jbonding

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  4. paddy1

    paddy1

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    I have looked at the lafarge site and there are a few good tips.
    with regards the order which i intend to do things ie. vapour barrier and then stud frame then insulation then plasterboard. Is this order correct.

    Also - Do i attach the vapour barrier direct to the inside of the external wall and if so how do i attach it.

    When i build the timber fram do I leave a gap between it and the inside of the external wall and if so then how many mm's.

    Finally do i attach my insulation directly to the vapour barrier on the external wall or do i leave a gap between it and the vapour barrier.

    Once again thanks for all your help.
     
  5. Mantamad

    Mantamad

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    My preferred way of doing it - if you have the internal space - is to construct it in the same way as an external wall in a timber framed house. Leave a 50mm cavity then erect your timber frame with a breather membrane such as Tyvec, facing into the cavity but attached to the frame (in new construction where the timber frame is erected before the external masonry a plywood backing is fixed to the timber frame but this is not so easy to do in your case)

    Place your insulation within the timber frame and finish with plasterboard - either foil backed - the foil acts as a vapour control layer or normal type plasterboard with a polythene vapour control layer behind. Fixed in place by nailing or a staple gun until the plasterboarding is done.

    Ideally you should drill into the brick wall and install perpend vents at high and low level to ventilate the cavity. 1.2m centres.

    With the ceiling, you can put the insulation behind the plasterboard - between the rafters but leave a 50mm air cap between the underside of the roof and top of the insulation and install vents at both eaves and ridge to ensure a good through flow of air, this will prevent condensation forming in the cold space above this insulation.
     
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  7. paddy1

    paddy1

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    So far all the help has been excellent.
    Just one last question...

    The ceiling is pitched at the same angle as the roof rather than a level ceiling.
    What is the best way to secure the header of the wall frame in place?
    Should I cut the 4" X 2" at an angle in order to attach it to the rafter or am I barking up the wrong tree there.

    Thanks.
     
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