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Sloping Tiles

Discussion in 'Tiling' started by rsbhj, 30 Jul 2021.

  1. rsbhj

    rsbhj

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    Hi

    I came back this evening to check on the work in my house and seen this, the photos don't really show the extent of the slope on the tiled sill or the bulging on the front part below the sill. If I put a marble at the window edge it rolls fast off the sill.

    The grout gives you a better idea of the slope.

    To me this shouldn't be like this and I had concerns at the job underneath before the tile were put on.

    Surely it shouldn't slope like this?
     

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  3. Bonni

    Bonni

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    Ideally, tiled cills should be level, front to back and left to right. Surprising at how many cills are cockeyed, many workmen are not bothered on detail.

    It means, either remove the tiles off the cill and see if the surface nearest the window can be lowered to fit new tiles level, or you will have to remove the trim and course of tiles on the front edge, cut taller ones and then fit. But, you will then have the issue of the trims on the side being slightly too long.

    Personaly, I don't like tiled cills, I would remove the tiles and fit a wooden cill board. The board can be rebated so the front bullnose edge would hide the silver trim.
     
  4. rsbhj

    rsbhj

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    Hi

    thanks, that was my next idea replace with a cill.

    Would the tiles at the side have to come of or just put cill straight on top of the tiles that are there and the side will be ok as you said the bullnose will cover the trim.

    the tiles under the trim (worktop to trim
    Up) do protrude out toward as the middle .
     
  5. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Was the sill level prior to tiling? If not , why not?
     
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  7. rsbhj

    rsbhj

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    That will be my first question on Monday to the guys as I had doubts about the condition of what was under it and was only part plasterboarded when I last seen it.
     
  8. Bonni

    Bonni

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    If the cill was even built out of level when the house was constructed, the plasterer should put the plasterboard on level; the joiner should fit a cill board level; the tiler should tile the cill level.

    A proper tradesman would sort out the background and work to a datum before commencing.

    If you pull the tiles and front trim off, get a wooden cill board and plane it thinner but leaving the front edge it's original thickness. Or, if you don't plastic, the front bullnose would likely cover the trim. Or, use a thinner wooden cill and trim the front off with a piece of thicker timber to hide the trim.
     
  9. Notch7

    Notch7

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    The tiling looks quite neat otherwise.
     
  10. Mr Chibs

    Mr Chibs

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    What about an oak cill with a double thickness at the front, something like this...

    AA749D62-7A01-472E-881F-D73879560A4A.jpeg

    I made this quickly from some oak flooring offcuts.

    that way you don’t have take off any tiles, and you can level off the slopes, just glue it in place.
     
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