Solenoid Coil Resistance V4600c gas valve

[Hp1]

Hi,

Does anyone know what the solenoid resistance should be for the v4600c 1029 Honeywell Gas Valve. Have power to solenoid but boiler not firing up. Multimeter playing up so could not read resistance (definitely over 2000 Ohms). Will go back with Fluke to check the resistance but would like to know what the resistance should be. Boiler located with no working room in front making things very difficult.

Many Thanks

Harry (RGI)

 

[ChrisR]

Just measured two. V404A is the solenoid part, 5.1 & 5.2k Ohms.

 

[Hp1]

Thanks ChrisR,

I was getting a 5.2k reading and thought it was too high. seams like the gas valve is ok and the demand signal is ok. Need to investigate further - very difficult to access.

Many thanks

Harry

 

[Agile]

You have not told the boiler make or model ?

So we dont know the MO.

Tony

 

[Hp1]

Hi Tony,

The boiler is a Thorn M54 balanced flue floor standing boiler. The issue is pilot is on but main burner does not fire up. Checked demand signal is getting to the solenoid (230 present at Solenoid terminals). Checked coil resistance this was 5.2K Ohms, originally thought this reading was high or my meter might have been playing up. However Chris has confirmed reading is as it should be. I will be going back on Monday when the customer has cleared out the little room the boiler is situated in so that I can test properly and check if valve is opening and will take a look into the combustion chamber (did manage to check that the grey valve on the gas valve is in correct position).

Kind Regards

Harry

 

[Agile]

Did you check the gas pressure at the inlet WHEN the valve was powered???

Tony

 

[Hp1]

Hi Tony,

haven't done too many tests at moment due to access. Will check everything (inlet/outlet gas pressures etc when working access is provided). Got a back ache just trying to do what I have done so far.

Kind Regards

Harry

 

[Paul Barker]

Might be relevant that the C is a slow start for main burner, don't know by what mechanism it holds back the main burner but it might be relevant.

It is also a very cheap gas valve so not worth much farting about with, (as long as standing pressure is adequate and working pressure of other apppliances OK, main jet not blocked) parts centre price is as good as any for this part. £25 or so.

 

[Hp1]

Hi Paul,

If the valve is only £25 or so you are right it would be false economy to mess around with it (however, when searching the net the price varies considerably). I will take a spare with me. I think the valve may be OK so will cary out normal checks (before considering replacement) such as Standing pressure, inlet working pressure and check that the solenoid is lifting the valve by checking burner pressure. If valve is opening I will take out burner assy and check burner and main burner injector for anything untowards.

By the way as general information (to improve my knowledge) what does the 1029 stand for? are all the V4600c valves the same? different boiler manufacturers give different part numbers to these valves and the price varies considerably (Between £35 to £150). My valve operates on 240V do some V4600c 1029 valves also operate on 24V? also are the inlet/outlet connections on all the V4600c Valves the same?

Thank you for yor help.

Harry

 

[Agile]

As general advice I would recommend your first checks should always be the inlet pressure WHEN the valve is activated.

Next the outlet pressure!

Then the voltage on the operator!

Only if the inlet remains OK and there is no outlet when the voltage is present should you should start measuring the coil.

I find most failures like that are a lack of gas supply!

Theree is a breed of social tenant who call the gas engineer instead of paying for some more gas hoping he will recharge the card free for them! As the Landlord pays there is always a chance!

I cannot afford to make more than one visit to repair a boiler and I always ask about access before I go!

Tony

 

[Hp1]

Hi Tony,

Makes sense what you say. But I think I will find that the gas supply is OK as the permanent pilot is on and the house is not rented but occupied by the Landlord. I think the problem will be in the combustion chamber area. Apparently the problem only occurred after the freak rain conditions on (was it) Thursday. I've had other calls where water had got into the combustion chamber and caused problems with the flame rectification device shorting out and not allowing the burner to fire (before you say I do realise this is an old boiler has does not have sophisticated safety devices).

Tony can you answer the general queries I asked regarding the gas valve please.

Regarding the fact that you only allow one visit to the boiler. Don't forget you have many years of experience behind you. Someday maybe I will be able to do that.

Kind Regards

Harry

 

[Agile]

The other number relates to the exact configuration of the internals. They can vary widely and include the soft light aspects and characterists.

Many do seem to be very similar and may well work as alternatives but cannot be sure and so should not use anything other that an exact replacement.

You might be able to fine Honeywell info on the internet. I found the info for their ignition pcbs which was very interesting.

Tony

 

[Hp1]

Tony thanks for you answer, most helpful as always.
I did try to google Honeywell gas valves but it did not throw up anything regarding data sheets or how they classify the valves. Maybe Chris will come back with more information. He, like you, is a minefield of information.



Kind regards

Harry

 

[Hp1]

Went back to boiler (access know provided). Checked Inlet pressure 20.5mb. Checked Burner Pressure 0mb. 230V at coil, coil resistance 5.5KOhms. Changed gas valve and boiler operates correctly (much easier when access available).

Thank you to all for help, information and advice.

Kind Regards

Harry

 

[croydoncorgi]

You should have tried tapping the gas valve!
This often frees the main armature/valve assembly when it's stuck shut with Mr Transco's glycol!