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Solid wood flooring in kitchen

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by DC1977, 10 Oct 2021.

  1. DC1977

    DC1977

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    Hi

    Is it OK to use this in out new kitchen extension? Or engineered wood better for humidity etc? Or no difference. I read on the web that engineered better in this part of the house?

    Any experience of this?

    thanks!
     
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  3. motorbiking

    motorbiking

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    Very few solid wood floors are suitable for a kitchen. Oak certainly isn’t.
     
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  4. DC1977

    DC1977

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    Ok many thanks for your reply. So
    In our old House we had pine floorboards that we ourselves painted in our kitchen. And had no problems with those?? So why would a solid wood floor be different? It would be on top of underfloor heating btw too
     
  5. Mr Chibs

    Mr Chibs

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    I had solid oak floor in my kitchen, you just have to be a little bit more careful with spills etc. But it is workable.

    What about bamboo?

    just read the UFH bit... go tiles/stone for best performance from ufh.
     
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  6. DC1977

    DC1977

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    Thanks, the floor will be covered in a lacquer to give it a very light colour, and I’m not sure we will be going for oak…

    maybe that will help? Or engineered better choice?
     
  7. Mr Chibs

    Mr Chibs

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    My ufh system (Polypipe) claims to be suitable for engineered flooring... and even wood... but wood is a good insulator, which is not what you want for UFH.

    I was set on solid oak again, but in the end went Safe, and chose limestone, I couldn’t find any positive comments about wood/engineered flooring.
     
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  8. charliegolf

    charliegolf

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    My 20 year old solid oak kitchen floor didn't get that memo. Still looks good.
     
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  9. DC1977

    DC1977

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    Great, getting 50/50 either way, perhaps the issue is heating rather than the floor lifting itself over time due to expansion contraction?
     
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  11. jacko555

    jacko555

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    I inherited a solid oak floor in my kitchen. It's also fine, slight cupping near the sink from years of splashing
     
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  12. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    Depends on the type of Solid Floor. Solid Planks are different to the ‘Engineered Solids’ that are designed as finishing floors rather than structural.

    personally over UFH I would float an engineered oak over an underfloor heating underlay such as Dursley Heatflow for wood flooring. Just need to check the Tog of the flooring and underlay does not exceed the out put recommendations if the UFH system.

    in addition tye subfloor needs to be dry, properly dry, and tested with at least a Protometer before installation.

    you’ll notice three common finishes of Engineered Flooring and it is these surfaces that will indicate how the floor is to live with:

    Lacquered floor is fit and forget, it will have a polyethylene coating that protects the surface form staining and no need to wax or oil

    UV Oiled floor is an open grain floor surface with a chemical in the oil finish that is resilient to moisture spills and ingrained dirt making it a little easier to live with and retaining a ‘true surface’.

    a oiled or Hardwaxed floor is open grain and a true finish but susceptible to water marks etc etc etc

    with any wood floor you should never wash it, use a natural wood floor soap from companies like Bona or Woods Good, spray and wipe off with a microfibre cloth.
     
  13. DC1977

    DC1977

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    so the chap we are likely to go with who has been recommended to us and is also reasonably priced has suggested unfinished PAR oak parquet flooring. Primer applied first underneath and flooring glued down over the screed.

    he is keen to start the job but I’m wary as we still need to finish painting the kitchen, concerned about paint drips on floor and marks from ladders. He will be sanding the floor and applying a lacquered finish so he doesn’t think this is a problem. And floor can be covered.

    Floor has been tested and is dried out. Parquet flooring is 22mm thick: we’ve only left 25mm for flooring on top of screed and we want it to be same level as original floorboard in adjacent rooms. He again thinks not a problem as will be sanded down level.

    Any thoughts??
     
  14. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    to a degree, your trust is in his abilities, but what he proposes is not uncommon.

    Of course in an ideal world the flooring is done last to avoid any possible issues although with such an installation as he proposes/describes, he may well plan to give it a skim with a sander anyway to ensure a perfect finish before the stain and lacquer
     
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  15. DC1977

    DC1977

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    he is going to use the sander, floor has gone down and is looking good. But worries about oak parquet over the under floor heating still…


    Hearing mixed reports some say it’s ok, others don’t do it …
     
  16. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    if the subfloor has been correctly prepared, and the spec of adhesives and flooring matched to the operating output of tye wood flooring, and the UFH is turned on and acclimatised to the wood flooring as per manufacturers instructions you should be fine. Going forwards from here will be the understanding of the finishing and finished floor surface and how to maintain incorrectly going forwards. Enjoy your new floor.
     
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