Spray gun for kitchen and advice needed

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Need some advice.
I want to spray my kitchen cabinets and drawers. I understand I'll need a lvhp spray gun which I plan on getting along with mini compressor and I know I'll need to clean all surfaces and sand but the thing I'm struggling with is the correct paint to buy and the correct method of thinning it to get through the gun.
I've had some spray work done before and seem to remember 9 to 1 paint to some kind of solvent mix but struggling to find what it is I need from Google.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
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Scuff-x satin or Everal Aqua Semi-Matt 40 both waterbased.

Zinsser BIN or bullseye 123+ as primer maybe.
Could use rattle cans of BIN.
You will have to thin paint enough to get it to spray and that will depend on spray setup. Over 20% water I'd guess with hvlp.


Oil based dulux trade satin but don't fancy spraying that as toxic
 
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I've had some spray work done before and seem to remember 9 to 1 paint to some kind of solvent mix
Morrells acid catalysed wood finish is a 9:1 mix.

you need primer+ catalyst
then top coat + catalyst

the catalysts are different

10% to 15% thinners are needed too.

hvlp gun will work with a 1.8mm tip

this gun gets good reviews for a budget gun….the problem is you won’t be able to use a mini compressor with HVLP


AC lacquer:

note: you need a suitable mask with formaldehyde filter
 
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You might be better off with a turbine based HVLP.

I have a Fuji but other brands are available. My Fuji is quite old and only 3 stage but if you are using the Morrells AC recommended by @Notch7 it will not struggle to atomise the paint.

When working with AC paints, you are supposed to use a clean air supply full face mask. I use a bog standard (AEBK) half mask but AC has been known to trigger asthma in people that have never previously shown symptoms.

That aside it is lovely to work with. I can spray a door and pick it up half an hour later and sand it after an hour or so. It is also extremely durable. Water based finishes become soft when exposed to oils (even the oils in your skin). Oil based is pretty durable but the overspray stays sticky for ages. The overspray from AC is often dry before it hits the floor.


I decided to purchase an extra hose so that I can keep the turbine 50ft away from the spray area. It prevents the turbine from sucking in any over spray and means that I don't have to listen to the noisy motor. I also purchased a remote controlled through plug so that I can turn it off and on without having to walk all the way back to the turbine. Another advantage is that the air entering the gun is cooler. Oh, and I also purchased a whip hose. The regular hoses are fairly rigid, the whip hose less so but should be considered a consumable- they are prone to eventually splitting.

If you decide to go down the compressor route you will need one with a pretty big reservoir and CFM. Additionally you will need a moisture trap.

Another alternative is an airless sprayer.


I have never used an airless sprayer but you need to work faster with them as the rate at which the paint is expelled is far higher. Unless you go for something like the handheld Graco, you also need to factor in the time needed to clean the inside of the hoses (which can be quite long).

If I needed to spray waterbased finishes, I would buy an airless. For AC, my old 3 stage is absolutely fine.
 

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