Spur from double socket to FCU and 2 lights

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Good Morning everyone,

Was hoping for some advice from a sparky if possible.

I'm redoing my living room and currently have two hanging lights from a single switch, which I would like to change to 6 spotlights, which I wouldn't think would be a problem.

But also I'd like to add 2 wall lights in the alcoves either side of the fireplace, operated by a new switch. I am building in built cupboards for either side and on one side I have a double socket. Would this be easier for me for create a spur from the double socket to an FCU and then to a switch, followed by the first light and then the second light, or would it be easier or better for me to break off the current lighting circuit down to a switch and then to the lights?

If I go down the FCU route, will 1mm twin and earth be sufficient from the double socket to the FCU and then the lighting?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
Alan
 
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Either method will do though personally I like to keep lights on the lighting circuit.

Regarding the FCU traditionally one would use 2.5mm between the double socket and the FCU, but the IET have just realised they were wrong (not for the first time) and have just released an amendment allowing 1.0mm to be used.
 
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One you can get switched FCU's so no need for separate light switch. The LAP range of grid switches done by Screwfix will allow you to mix and match, so can have socket and fuse for example.

However likely better to simply plug in, in the main as so much is sold which plugs in, I have Lidi Smart LED Light Strip in my display cabinet and this is plugged in as it came with a walmart plug in power supply.

Last house display used simple on/off switch, the result was never switched on once novelty had worn off, this house auto switches on in the evening and off at bed time, and to do that I use plug in units. I have it so you can't see the plug in units, but when I tried smart sockets, and light switches, and one went wrong, it was a pain to repair, plug in easy if it goes wrong, and touch wood to date not gone wrong.

As to spot lights yes I have used them for main lighting, my son has just fitted a set of 5 at top of stairs for me, 1653986674715.png but they need some thing to aim at, be it glass balls, or picture on the wall, you don't want it to look like a planetarium, it needs to look like they have be selected to enhance the look of the room, not just a way to gain more head room. In the one shown I have a smart relay so outer 4 lamps are white and centre is colour changing and I can select which I am using, so multi light levels.

I have light bar in bedroom so lights my laptop, but whole point make it look as if carefully planned not just thrown up, even if they are just thrown up.

My living room had a single light and above it the floor is not removable, so to get enough light I have used an eight bulb chandelier on a plug in ceiling rose, so I can unplug and take down to clean, again planning, and the chrome ceiling rose looks good.

Even with 8 x 6 watt that is only 1/4 of an amp, so does not need heavy cables, 1 mm is ample. I think splitting lights onto lighting and power is good, as if a RCBO should trip you still have some light.
 
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Thank you both for your replies.

I will be installing the 6 spotlights into the ceiling with nothing else around them, which will match the kitchen.

This is why were installing the 2 side lights as well, which will have shelving to the side.

These are the lights we will be installing either side.

I think I will go with the switched FCU then, I can bring it above the built in cabinet and make it easily accessible, whilst allowing a accessible panel inside the built in cupboard to access behind the sockets and wiring etc if I ever need it.

Thank you Winston for confirming the wiring. Looking forward to it all coming together, as it's a building site at the moment.
 

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