stud walls

[JohnnyF]

Hi, we are planning on changing the layout of the rooms in the 2nd floor of our house. The rooms are all currently divided by stud partitions.

To save costs so the money can be spent on more important jobs like the central heating and rewiring, I am considering doing the new studwork myself. Is it quite straightforward for a DIYer to do this kind of work or is it best to call in the professionals?

Also, if we opt for wooden/metal stud walls is there any product you can pack between the plasterboard sheets to improve the sound proofing?

If not would it be advisable to go for lightweight concrete blocks to build the partition walls (i.e. do these offer better sound insulation)? If you build these sort of partition walls do they need to be situated directly above another solid wall?

Thanks

John

 

[masona]

I am considering doing the new studwork myself. Is it quite straightforward for a DIYer to do this kind of work or is it best to call in the professionals?

Pretty straight forward, you can use 3"x2" or 4"x2" timber for studwork, 4"x2" would be easier for door frame thickness with plasterboards. Start of with wallplate on the bottom and another on top temporary and measure the height from the top of the wallplate to ceiling height and add on approximately 3mm longer on the timber, cut 2 length, remove the top temporary wallplate, fix the bottom wallplate, make sure the screw are the correct length, no more than the floor thickness and wallplate. Put 2 upright timber on each end and wedged it with the top wallplate & don't forget the spirit level, the next timber position is where the plasterboard joint meet in the centre of the timber stud and a couple more studs in between. As for soundproofing you can use rock wool insulation or acoustic foam. Don't forget any light switches/cable and an extra noggins will be useful for fixing shelves or whatever, the door frame lining, you can buy it in a kit which the top frame is reversible for 2' 3" or 2' 6"

If not would it be advisable to go for lightweight concrete blocks to build the partition walls (i.e. do these offer better sound insulation)? If you build these sort of partition walls do they need to be situated directly above another solid wall?

A wallplate on the bottom then use lightweight blocks, will take longer to do plus drying time with plaster, your choice really, timber studwork is easier to knock down if needed in the future, it's also warmer & lighter materials. If the wallplate is in the opposite direction of the floor joists, that's okay, if it's not then will need plenty of noggins under the floor joists to support the wall weight

Edit: spelling error

 

[^woody^]

I would use CLS timber - which is generally staighter than standard 3x2 sawn.

And at 63mm, this will give an approx 100mm wall when finished. Use rockwool inside for sound proofing.

Remember, set your studs out to suit the size of the plasterboard sheets - either 600 or 450 centres

 

[Richard C]

When deciding weather to use 75mm or 100mm timber for the studs it may be worth considering the electrical regs. Cables run within the wall at less that 50mm from the wall surface must only be routed in a ‘safe zone’; generally easy to acieve but if not, they must be protected by steel covering (conduit – capping is not regarded acceptable).

This is easy to achieve when running cables in the centre of 100mm studwork, debatable with 75mm! 100mm will also give slightly better sound insulation, is stronger & the difference in timber cost is not that great.

 

[ModernMaterials]

If you havent done anything like this before, a chalk line will be invaluable. You might even consider getting one of these newfangled laser levels/lines cus its always uplifting to buy a new gadget, and it will be useful.