Supporting floating kicthen worktop?

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I'm looking to create a floating shelf in an unused corner next to our fridge...
The shelf would be 350mm x 500mm with the forces in the longer direction (since that faces in the same direction as the fridge)

What's the best way to support?

Current thinking is either:
a) two 300mm floating shelf brackets on the shorter length + batten at the back
b) batten on both wall sides routed into the kitchen worktop

Obviously the wooden worktop is heavy - open to alternative options to give the same look...
 
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What is the wall made of - stud, masonry, dot and dabbed? Do you intend to have the shelf 350mm wide, projecting 500mm from the wall, or the other way round (not clear to me from what I read). What load do you envisage? And what thickness/ material is the worktop? Either way wall brackets fixing to the face if tbe walldon't give you massive load capacity and for masonry walls at least there are better solutions. Sorry, lots if questions, butI'd likee the answer you get to be right
 
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What is the wall made of - stud, masonry, dot and dabbed? Do you intend to have the shelf 350mm wide, projecting 500mm from the wall, or the other way round (not clear to me from what I read). What load do you envisage? And what thickness/ material is the worktop? Either way wall brackets fixing to the face if tbe walldon't give you massive load capacity and for masonry walls at least there are better solutions. Sorry, lots if questions, butI'd likee the answer you get to be right
It's both 350 and 500 projecting depending which way you look at it since it's in a corner.

Wall is dot and dab in this spot I believe

Expected loads are around 20-30kg I think overall of

We want to keep the space underneath as clear as possible hence the floating idea!

Edit: oh and the material I have is 30mm oak (ish) worktop. It's bloody heavy tbh so that would add to the load above
 
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You will need to go directly into the masonry or if the gap is quite large you will need to take out a section of plasterboard, pack off the wall with plywood or OSB (to make a pattress), then make good the PB, and fix through the PB into the pattress (and ideally the masonry behind it as you will need some really quite long fixings)
 
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I think the gap is around an inch from recollection... I've used dot and dab fixings on my 3m roller blind successfully but obviously this would have a lot more weight...
In an ideal world I'd just stick a leg or two there but there's a cat flap which needs access underneath...
 
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This should work, the screw ( black ) and plug ( blue ) will need to be as long as possible.
 

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To aid the conversation here is the space.

I'm mostly worried about canterlever motion from the direction the picture is facing... (I'm hoping to be able to fix my beer engine on here at parties!)
1653035817510.png
 
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To be brutally honest I'd probably run a 50 x 50mm aluminium angle profile around the two walls, and fix to that (drilled, counterrsunk and screwed upwards from beneath - add extra screws towards the corner for extra security). The back angle will never be seen, the side one needs to be set back maybe 40mm or so from the front edge and if you spray paint it something like matt dark grey or matt dark brown it will never be noticed - other than by the cat(s) and the odd paralytic who always seems to end up flat on their back beneath the beer engine at parties (or is thst just my mates?). It will be a lot easier than trying to fit two bars into the narrow end of that worktop, a lot cheaper and a lot more stable
 
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To be brutally honest I'd probably run a 50 x 50mm aluminium angle profile around the two walls, and fix to that (drilled, counterrsunk and screwed upwards from beneath - add extra screws towards the corner for extra security). The back angle will never be seen, the side one needs to be set back maybe 40mm or so from the front edge and if you spray paint it something like matt dark grey or matt dark brown it will never be noticed - other than by the cat(s) and the odd paralytic who always seems to end up flat on their back beneath the beer engine at parties (or is thst just my mates?). It will be a lot easier than trying to fit two bars into the narrow end of that worktop, a lot cheaper and a lot more stable
Thanks - what thickness of aluminium profile do you think it would need? And would that provide enough support on the corner close to the fridge?
 
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3 to 5mm. You need to get a enough fixings into the masonry and screws at every 50mm or so upwards into the bottom of the shelf. With 6.0 x 25mm screws you should be able to support 25 to 30kg. Timber batten (not into a rebate) would also do the job but is a bit more obtrusive
 
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It would look a bit odd but if you put a leg halfway back (so clear of the catflap) it would reduce the cantilever loading massively.
Or glue a few of those plastic blocks (used in kitchen units) to the side of the fridge).
Both these as well as the chunky wall fixings above
 
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Well, serendipity is a wonderful thing. Walked into Wilko the other day and they had a unit on clearance that fit the gap nicely.
Modified it with an old worktop cut to shape, screwed to wall with an aluminium angle left over from our kitchen and bobs your uncle. Works a charm
 

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