Tiles v Panels

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Hi all,

I am ex-tiler and I am currently building my own house which includes 2 ensuites and 1 bathroom.
I have already bought the tiles but now I am considering using the panelling instead due to it's alleged ease of fitting and low maintenance.
I have put this onto the tilers forum as I want some reasons as to why I should not use panels and I though if anyone would know it would be you guys.
Any advice much appreciated.

Mark.
 
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Cant say not to use them, I prefer panels, they give a cleaner look, are quicker to clean and no grout!
 
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The question wording makes it sound like you have tiles but having second thoughts on fitting panels but then don't want to?
In wet areas like showers, panels are a big winner, theres less area for mould to start, they clean much easier. Personally I think tiles look nicer in a larger room out of the shower area but thats personal preference. Times have changed, tile shave got much better looking and panels also offer that minimal clean look and can be fitted much quicker.
 
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@Ruggers
Thanks for that and you're right that I have already bought the tiles as I got them for a good deal a while ago.
Can I ask if the panels should be fitted into a background of cement board, moisture resistant plasterboard or plasterboard?
And does this require tanking?
 
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I once worked on large tracts of timber frame housing, and quite often the crane would lift in one-piece 3-wall plastic panels and tub. Some only used a one-piece 3-wall panel with the tub separate.
I never heard of any later complaints or call backs ref the panels.

Modern, Large format tiles have helped prevent grout leakage but, for me, there's nothing wrong with high quality, thick skinned plastic panels. The problems come with the fitting of three-wall separate panels esp at the inside corners.
No tanking or "cement board" needed. But best to get Mfr's advice on vapour barriers and fixing backgrounds.
 
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@Ruggers
Thanks for that and you're right that I have already bought the tiles as I got them for a good deal a while ago.
Can I ask if the panels should be fitted into a background of cement board, moisture resistant plasterboard or plasterboard?
And does this require tanking?
If you want to use the panels in an area that takes a lot of water like the shower, then best practice is to install the backer board, prices range a lot, abacus elements are expensive, or you can get much cheaper alternatives, have a look at wickes or your local merchants, ive seen some cheap deals on them. Moisture board will be fine if you make sure no water can get at it.

The weak point is always the joint where the waterproof panels meet the tray when the silicone bead fails, so if you use a shower tray tape something like the link below, it can keep any water from entering leaking down the back of the tray or coming into contact with the backer/plasterboard used. Then just your usual silicone bead between tray & wall panel to seal. Also add a bead to the corner and end profile trims if used.

 
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The best shower trays for long term water "proofing" are the styles with edge rim fins/upstands on two or three sides.
The bottom course of tile (& vapour barrier) comes down over the fin/upstand but stands off the tray rim by about 5mm - 6mm, & is sealed in with silicone.

The stick-on upstand strips, in my limited experience, deteriorate after a few years and can become a nuisance
 
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The best shower trays for long term water "proofing" are the styles with edge rim fins/upstands on two or three sides.
The bottom course of tile (& vapour barrier) comes down over the fin/upstand but stands off the tray rim by about 5mm - 6mm, & is sealed in with silicone.

The stick-on upstand strips, in my limited experience, deteriorate after a few years and can become a nuisance
What material are the trays with the up stands, can you get them in stone resin or just in plastic type trays?
 
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The best shower trays for long term water "proofing" are the styles with edge rim fins/upstands on two or three sides.
The bottom course of tile (& vapour barrier) comes down over the fin/upstand but stands off the tray rim by about 5mm - 6mm, & is sealed in with silicone.

The stick-on upstand strips, in my limited experience, deteriorate after a few years and can become a nuisance
These are the ones I've got, upstand on all 4 sides so hopefully no leaks around the tray.

What material are the trays with the up stands, can you get them in stone resin or just in plastic type trays?
Mine are all Mira and I think they are resin as they are very heavy.
 
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These are the ones I've got, upstand on all 4 sides so hopefully no leaks around the tray.
So the shower door and frame fits inside of this also? Just thinking about clearance for a door to open if 3 sides of the enclosure are walls and the 4th is a glass screen and door.

Just reading back to tells comment, how can you tile onto a vapour barrier?
 
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So the shower door and frame fits inside of this also? Just thinking about clearance for a door to open if 3 sides of the enclosure are walls and the 4th is a glass screen and door.
Yep, gonna either have a sliding door or folding door or possibly just mount the door higher than the lip although I'm not 100% sure this last option will work.
 
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You cant. You dont tile on a vapour barrier.
The VB comes down behind the backing/"fixing background and just peeps out at the tray upstand.

sparky, can you post a pic of your tray with four fin type upstands?
 
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You cant. You dont tile on a vapour barrier.
The VB comes down behind the backing/"fixing background and just peeps out at the tray upstand.

sparky, can you post a pic of your tray with four fin type upstands?
I've never heard of anyone using a VB internally around a shower but I have used under my insulation in my non ventilated flat roof.
Just to confirm if the VB is attached to the stud wall and then the fixing background is applied over the VB then the VB is preventing any water ingress from getting into the stud partition but does not in any way protect the fixing background?
However could this not cause trapped moisture to build up between the VB and the fixing background?#
Surely any moisture vapour getting through the cladding and through the fixing background would then build up do to a lack of a physical gap or any air movement between the VB and the back of the fixing background?
Hence you would need to use a waterproof fixing background if you did not feel comfortable with relying on the cladding or accept that your fixing background, if not waterproof, is potential sacrificial?
Hope that makes sense.

I'll get a photo of the shower tray and upload hopefully today.
 
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I've had a look and seen the up stand trays, you can also get them with 3 up stands but less common and not MIRA.
 
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