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Going to tile me bathroom... do ya need to put plywood down to tile?? the floor would be to high if i done that and whats a good water sealant for under the tiles
Going to tile me bathroom... do ya need to put plywood down to tile?? the floor would be to high if i done that and whats a good water sealant for under the tiles
simplest way is to remove your existing flooring and replace it with 19-25mm WBP ply ( 19-25mm depends on the height of your existing floor)
It must be secured with screws every 150mm, the 4 sides and back of the board need to be sealed with an acrylic primer ( not PVA)
Remember you will also need a flexible adhesive and grout
when you say water sealant for under the tiles, do you mean a tanking system for under the wall tiles and floor tiles or just the floor, if only the floor, why? are you going to make it into a wet-room ?
Sorry my info wasnt that clear... took up old timber on floor... going to put plywood down and then put the tiles on... screw down the plywood and put down acryic primer on ply... anything else im missing.... sumone said to me about a water sealant but only a toilet and sink going down
Sorry my info wasnt that clear... took up old timber on floor... going to put plywood down and then put the tiles on... screw down the plywood and put down acryic primer on ply... anything else im missing.... sumone said to me about a water sealant but only a toilet and sink going down
firstly, use an acrylic primer to seal all edges and underside of the boards before screwing to the joists, check to see if you need to insert noggins between the joists to stiffen up the floor.
ONLY put primer on the face side of the boards if the adhesive manufacturer states the use of primer
If there is only going to be a toilet and sink installed there is no need for any waterproofing of your floor.
Use WBP 19-25mm not standard ply, thickness you need will depend upon your joist size/pitch/span; the floor must have no perceivable flexing or the tiles will fail. Fix ply as JCT’s post, cut edges must be supported either along the centre line of a joist or intermediate noggins, the two unsupported edges around the wall don’t usually need support unless they are across a door threshold or subject to any loading. Seal the BACK & all edges with acrylic/SBR primer. DO NOT prime the top tile face unless your adhesive manufacturer recommends it, most don’t & could affect tile adhesion; you don’t need to tank unless it’s a wet room. Use a quality trade flexible cement based addy/grout suitable for the tiles your laying, do not use tub mix or cheapo DIY shed crap.
Read the tiling sticky & Tiling Forum archives to avoid making potentially disastrous mistakes.
This is the floor.... so im going to put down the ply 12mm wbp.... then screw it down with countersinking screws every 150mm.... then use acrylic primer on the ply.... is that correct.... have a mate thats doing the tiling... just want to get everything ready
Confusing, your last post said you’d “taken up the timber on the floor” which I assumed was the original floorboards. If your overboarding, fix the ply through into the joists (check for pipes & cables) not just into the top of the floorboards. Make sure the original floorboards are well secured first using additional screws if necessary.
An alternative would be to use tile backer boards.
Seal the BACK & all EDGES with acrylic/SBR primer. DO NOT prime the top tile face unless your adhesive manufacturer recommends it, most don’t & it could affect tile adhesion.
Use a quality trade flexible cement based addy/grout suitable for the tiles your laying, do not use tub mix or cheapo DIY shed crap. Read the tiling sticky & Tiling Forum archives to avoid making potentially disastrous mistakes.
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