tips for adding inhibitor to combi system

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when I add fernox etc to my combi system I isolate a rad, drain it by cracking the joints, taking out the bleed valve assembly and then adding the liquid through the hole with a funnel and tube. Close system, add water to restore the pressure and away we go.

this is a very tedious job.

is there an easier way to do this?
 
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I have made up a kit from an old rad valve, a piece of hose and a funnel. My method is, drain sufficient fluid from a system drain point to relieve pressure (If a pressurised system) Or tie up the header tank ball valve in a vented system and drain down till header tank is empty.Turn off one rad valve on the rad you are going to fill. Attach bicycle pump to vent valve hole, (connector avlbl from plumbers merchants) pump sufficient water out of rad then close other rad valve. Remove bleed valve housing, fit rad valve kit (as described above) pour in flushing/inhibiting fluid, replace and undo as required.
Sounds complicated, but takes less time to do than to type this. My Corgi man has pinched the design to use himself, so it can't be too bad :!:
 
if you want to really go for it buy a cheap garden sprayer
cut the lance off stick a peice of 8mm copper in the tube
then get a 10mm x 1/2"" compression fitting attach 10 mm end to hose
remove 1/2""comp nut and olive
and attach it to the fill loop
put the inhibitor / cleanser in the pot with a bit of water
pump the handle and all the world is right
its all i use :)
 
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I'm fascinated that a plumber's merchant would stock Bicycle Pump to bleed valve adapters. What on earth for?

And how do you connect 10mm copper to a plastic hose?

I have a sentinel bottle with a taak connector connected to the lid and a bit of 15mm, which can go to a flexy tap connector or otherwise. Just swap it to the new bottle and pour in a 1/2" hole if there is one.

Otherwise connect the pressure tester (which any responsible plumber will have) and pump it in the fill loop. Not a problem for a tester - they go to 50 bar.
 
Why don`t you all just buy a proper sentinel pressure injection bottle which comes with all the attachments for different bleed nipple sizes and positions a lot less hassle no mess and dosing done in minutes.
 
I was told the Sentinel bleed-nipple screw-in bits wear out very quickly. Have you found that to be true?
 
Why don`t you all just buy a proper sentinel pressure injection bottle which comes with all the attachments for different bleed nipple sizes and positions a lot less hassle no mess and dosing done in minutes.

Why not buy the sentinel in the mastic tube for about £17+vat you get a new bleed nipple adapter with every tube. Its stepped so cut it to the size you need squirt in the gel and bung the tube and adapter away? :eek:
 
Chris had it seven years and all nipples and connections as new and thats with bouncing about a van and being used for removing blockages in pipework with a few adaptations stong bottle stores a good bit of pressure and was used very successfully to push water out of internal gas pipes in countless houses after a major incident when a water main and gas main burst. Big dave sentinel in bottle £11 plus vat minimuim £6 cheaper as some sentinel concentrate products over £20 plus vat . times by 50/60 bottles a year and it`s not far off £400 cheaper to use a injection bottle
 
when I add fernox etc to my combi system I isolate a rad, drain it by cracking the joints, taking out the bleed valve assembly and then adding the liquid through the hole with a funnel and tube. Close system, add water to restore the pressure and away we go.

this is a very tedious job.

is there an easier way to do this?

If you take the cap out the other end of the rad it fly's in in about 10 second's? If you only take one end cap out the air you are replacing with inhibitor has to escape out the same way so it's goes in very slow and bubbles every 2 seconds.

Sam
 
Sambotc seeing as this is a 3 year old topic i bet he has got it in by now. :LOL: :LOL:
 

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