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tongue and groove in bathroom

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by toffee, 4 Feb 2006.

  1. toffee

    toffee

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    I would like to put tongue and groove all around the lower third of my bathroom. The bath I am getting is a free standing one and will be a foot away from the wall. ( I have seen this simple look in magazines where the wood is colour washed )
    The walls are already tiled to this level and I wonder if its ok to put the tongue and groove on top of them or if they need to come off?
    Also, would it be ok to have it behind the toilet and sink or not?
    I really like the idea but my hubby is concerned that water would get in the grooves and sit and rot the wood.
    Would it have to be special wood specifically for use in the bathroom?
    help appreciated.
     
  2. Scrit

    Scrit

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    If you put the tongues uppermost then the water won't get in and stay in the grooves. For use in a bathroom you'll have to make sure that you seal everything really well. I'd seriously consider using something like a wood hardener (Bondaglass Voss) which is used in wood preservation to harden and treat wood suffering from wet rot - it literally turns the wood into plastic but doesn't appreciably change the colour. If you do go that way make sure that you wear gloves whilst handling it and use disposable brushes - it cures on contact with moisture (such as the moisture in your skin - makes your fingers black and hard) and screws up brushes pretty good.

    Scrit
     
  3. toffee

    toffee

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    would I still be able to paint over the top of that stuff? or would I paint first then do it with that?
     
  4. Gary_M

    Gary_M

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    Hi,

    I agree with Scrit, as this would offer the highest security.

    On saying that, in my previous house I made a tongue and groove 'lowered ceiling'. The wood was thin (probably only about 5mm thick). It was very cheap to buy, so I thought I would chance it to see what would happen, and the bathroom wasn't very big, so I felt that it wouldn't be of great concern if it didn't work, as I could replace it quite easily.

    I built a simple frame on the ceiling and nailed the wood too it - just tapping the grooves into place, without using glue. I sealed it with Ronseal outdoor varnish, and it lasted the 8 years I was in the house without any problem. I am assuming that it is still there.

    What I would say is - varnish/paint both sides of the wood if you are going to chance trying it without the use of the wood hardner.

    Oh, and run some silicon around the edges to stop water/condensation from creeping down the back of the wood.

    Good luck,

    Gary
     
  5. Scrit

    Scrit

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    Yes. You need to sand the wood after application. I'm not sure that paint on its own would provide enough protection - depends on how steamy your bathroom gets and the type of paint

    Scrit
     
  6. Deluks

    Deluks

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    You can get preformed MDF panels in a tongue and groove pattern, much easier to fix (no more nails), cheaper, and once they've been painted they'll look great, not much use if you want a natural wood look though.
    Check your local homebase/B&Q etc, they should all sell this stuff.
     
  7. Jasonb

    Jasonb

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    I,ve just about finished a bathroom with oak beaded T&G boards to the bath panel and BTW WC, vanity also has beaded oak doors. I gave all the boards 3 coats of water bourne lacquer all over before fixing, should have some pics tomorrow.

    I have done a few ceilings with T&G pine finished in Ronseal "woodwash" which is a white tinted water based varnish, should be OK on vertical boarding as well.

    Have also used moisture resistant MDF with "V" grooves cut with a router and painted with oil based eggshell, still look fine after about six years, even behing loo. As has been said you can buy the MDF readg grooved.

    this pic shows both in the same room.

    Jason
     
  8. toffee

    toffee

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    thankyou all. What about doing it on top of the tiles though?
     
  9. Jasonb

    Jasonb

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    If you can afford the slight loss of floor space then there should be no problem onto the tiles.

    Jason
     
  10. Gary_M

    Gary_M

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    Jason, (sorry for going off topic here)

    What colour is the paint you used on the upper half of the walls in that photo - exactly what I've been looking for to do the lounge :)

    Thanks,

    Gary

    PS Is the photo quite 'true to colour'?
     
  11. Jasonb

    Jasonb

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    Dulux Tuscan Terracotta, can't remember if it's tint 2 or 3, left the rest of the pot with the client. You will have to get it mixed as its not an off the shelf colour. Its quite close maybe a little bit more red in real life.

    Jason
     
  12. Gary_M

    Gary_M

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    Thanks Jason,

    I thought it was some sort of terraccotta, but didn't recall seeing this shade - the tint explains it. I'll get some little pots made up with tint 2 and 3 and see what looks best.

    Cheers :p
     
  13. Jasonb

    Jasonb

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    Garry, I got it wrong, its a ready mixed colour so you should be able to find it in most Dulux stockists although I got it mixed in Trade emulsion, the rich matt is a little shinier. It was the Jungle Drums green that was tint 2or 3.

    Jason
     
  14. Gary_M

    Gary_M

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    Ok Jason, thanks :)

    Sorry for changing the topic toffee :oops:
     
  15. gcol

    gcol

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    Jasonb
    Is that nearest door waaaaay out of vertical plumb or is it a camera illusion?
    Looks nice though. :D
     
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