Unclicking laminate flooring

JAD

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I was wondering if anybody could tell me a method for lifting sections of laminate flooring? I have removed the edging strips ok, so that I can see a small gap around the edges of the room but I can't get enough puchase to unclick the first board! I'm trying not to damage the flooring as it will need to go down again.
Any advice would be greatly received :D
 
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wheres the hook you layed the floor with!!!!!

if you havent got one get a "laminate floor laying kit" as they come in handy for relaying and contains a "hook"

561_cmyk.jpg
 
Don't you just love the ads for click-systems: easy to repair, easy to move with you ;)
 
Thank you for your swift response. Yes I've got a hook. I guess you are suggesting I lift the flooring, with the hook, enough to get my figures aroung the end of a plank and then pull apart as hard as I can until my eyes bukge like this :eek: and hopefully the section comes away.
Or am I being dim and there's a cleverer way :confused:
 
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you dont pull it appart untill it has been "released" from the other plan ;)

you need to unclick whole lengths at a time start at one end and work along it should unclick when raized about 2 or three inches

you should expect about 25% wastage when trying to re used click type in a different location
and about 5 to 10% in the same location

as long as it hasnt been glued that is !!!!
if its glued its knackerd :cry:
 
Thanks. I want to put the floor back where it came from, just need to get under the floorboards. All have a go and get back if I'm still having problems.
 
plan b cut an access hatch and try and minimise the effects of an oblong in the middle off the floor !!!!!!!

where and what size needs to be accessed!!! maybe you could rip down a join and slide the whole floor section over to one side!!!!
 
Sliding the whole floor over!! That is a very cunning plan! Unfortunately not workable for me as the room is complicated with a chimney breast and built-in wardrobes, over the flooring. But I like your lateral thinking.

I need to get at the plumbing, which runs parallel to one wall and close to it, and luckily parallel to the sections of laminate.

I think I will use a very sharp stanley knife along the joints and do my best to keep the cuts as straight and clean as possible. I found some spare lengths of laminate in the loft - which makes any slips less critical.
 
JAD said:
Sliding the whole floor over!! That is a very cunning plan! Unfortunately not workable for me as the room is complicated with a chimney breast and built-in wardrobes, over the flooring. But I like your lateral thinking.

I need to get at the plumbing, which runs parallel to one wall and close to it, and luckily parallel to the sections of laminate.

I think I will use a very sharp stanley knife along the joints and do my best to keep the cuts as straight and clean as possible. I found some spare lengths of laminate in the loft - which makes any slips less critical.


well not the whole floor that wouldnt work ;)

perhaps a 3ft wide section or what ever was required to clear the area as long as it was less than half that can be slid accross to clear the required area for accsess

what ever you do you still have the problem of connecting the origional to the new as you wont have a clear click edge
you will only have a cut edge which i suggest you will need perhaps 3mm ply along the "cut edge " overlapping by perhaps 30mm each side with contact adhesive to hold the edges together
 
What we normally do when we have to replace a T&G (glued) board somewhere in the middle of the floor is to cut that board right through the middle, remove it gently out. We then clean the groove from the boards next to it and cut of the bottom of the groove fo the new board. We slide the Tongue of the new board in the cleaned groove and glue the remaining part of the groove and the board lays in place. Put a heavy object on the board until the glue bonds.
It will be a 'weak' link in the floor, but gives the least hassle.
 

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