UPVC window question

1 Mar 2011
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United Kingdom
Had new UPVC windows fitted in the summer by a small two man band type firm and they did a good job, I think, it certainly looks good anyway.

The issue is i'm sure they are letting some noise and possibly draughts in - its hard to explain, but i can hear conversations outside which i'm sure wasn't an issue before.

I did a quick test with a piece of paper and the windows seem to have varying degrees of "grab" on the paper when i shut the window with the paper in the reveal. Some times it comes out easily, other times it needs a bit of a tug. It never rips.

The areas where it comes out easily there is still a little bit of drag. I'm used to checking spark plugs with a feeler guauge for those that are familiar, and there is a bit more drag than you'd want on plugs but its still pretty easy to pull it out.

These areas are are the top of the windows, the head/top-jam (?) near the trickle vents (which we had to have - x4 in each room). It seems fine against the bottom of the sash/opener, if that makes sense. So tight at the bottom, loose at the top.

Is there a way to tighten the sash / opening bit against the frame to make a tighter seal on the gasket? Rehau windows, but as i since learned, thats just the plastic bits so who knows what the mechanisms etc are.

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It may well be the multitude of trickle vents that are the main problem in terms of noise. Try blocking them externally with something such as compacted rolled toilet roll and tape over it for a day and see if that makes a difference.
trickle vents let noise in

in regards to draught seal compression, the espagnolette side will have adjustment for increasing compression -if they are mushroom espags then an allen key will turn the mushroom -its eccentric so can adjust a bit

Im not sure if there is compression adjustment at the friction hinge end though

you should check outside to see if the opener is sitting with an equal overlap all the way around -if the opener is crooked compared to the frame, then its possible for one corner to not be seal -sometimes daylight can be seen

the other thing is on tall windows sometimes the opener can be a bit bowed and when **** doesnt compress the gasket in the middle -there is a clip that can be fitted to overcome this -although they are profile specific

You can use a naked flame test -like a candle or lighter, hold at various positions and see if the flame gets blown a bit by a small draught
Thanks both.

I don't know why we ended up with so many trickle vents. So stupid, as we were going to go triple glazed but decided against it for the vents.

I'll try blocking up some vents.

We had strong winds the other night and a candle was moving about but very hard to see where it's coming in. Hence the paper test.

I'll ask the fitter again if he can come around to adjust as I've noticed a few are catching but if not I'll have a go myself. Just don't really see why I should as they are only a few months old.
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Depending how the trickle vents are installed, you might not need to fully block them. Years back when we had new windows installed, I discovered the trickle vents had been clipped into the frame but weren't sealed all around the perimeter. I ran a small bead of clear silicon around the perimeter and it made a noticeable difference when the vent was then opened or closed in terms of external noise.
So the fitter came and went and says the windows are sealed fine. He says he put expanding foam around the window reveals. I think he did as I saw the work in progress. The rooms definitely feel colder. I'm not sure if it's psychological or not. Temp sensors show the rooms at approx 19c. I don't think that is cold, but it feels chilly.

The brickwork of the bays is not insulated. Im wondering if it's possible for new windows which are A+ rated to show up cold brickwork somehow? A thermal camera showed the outside brickwork of the bays as 6c near the internal radiator. Elsewhere it was -3.

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