Vaillant TurboMax 282 - Flashing Ignition Indicator

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My idnition indicator (yellow, two triangles on top of each other) flashes intermittently. It seems to be worse when I have the CH on - so i'm thinking it may have something to do with the divertor valve or the little microswitch on it?

The servicing guide I have says that if this is flashing it shows a lack of water or poor water circulation in the central heating system. I have 1.5bar pressure in the central heating, and there does not appear to be any air in the system.

Basically it all works, but about 3 or 4 times a day, this thing flashes and and resetting the boiler (power on/off) brings it back to life.

Any ideas? The divertor valve was changed about 2 years ago (old one was leaking).
 
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Give the little tube feeding the pump flow switch a clean. Either that or the switch itself is failing.
 
Which is the pump flow switch?

You mean the little microswitch on the diverter valve?
 
Bump,

I'm still having this problem - though now it appears to be somewhat worse - perhaps the symptoms may jog someones memory:

So being winter, both HW and CH are enabled - but what I find is that the ignition indicator light flashes - but even if there is no CH or HW activity. Basically I switch the unit on and off - no CH or HW needed - and after almost exactly 5 minutes, the light start flashing.

Is there something that happens in the boiler every 5 minutes that could be activating this? No CH pump or anything else is running and it happens if I have it set to HW only mode too.

The way I reset it is either by switching on and off, or twisting the selector switch to the reset position (picture of a flame).

Anyone have any ideas?

Aris
 
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Ok, this has been resolved. For future reference, here is how it was fixed.

A bit of research on this forum and elsewhere led me to believe this was a pressure differential switch issue. So I bit the bullet and ordered one from here for under 30 quid delivered.

http://www.uk-plumbing.com/vaillant-pressure-diff-switch-p-33044.html

After much examination of the unit, I followed the directions in the installation manual on installing it which is roughly this:

NOTE - these are the instructions paraphrased - please get the instruction manual for the full instructions and safety precautions.

1) Switch boiler off and remove front cover and the cover which houses the burner (4 screws). Also, unscrew the lower cover which just tilts down (1 screw).

2) Close the CH inlet and outlet pipes. There is a little screw on them (you will need a short stubby screwdriver to get to it) - just turn them until they stop.

3) Empty the CH water from the boiler. There are two little valves for this which you unscrew, and the water comes streaming out. You will need a short piece of hose for this (I used a garden hose cutoff) and a bucket. It filled about half the bucket and took about 5 minutes. There are three seperate valves - two at the bottom at the inlet/outlet, and one at the top near the heat exchanger. Once the bottom two are empty (do them one at at time) put the hose back on the leftmost one, and open up the 3rd one at the top near the heat exchanger. Once this is open, it will release another quarter buck of water. Once this is done, close all those valves and you can continue replacing the valve

4) Replace the valve. There is a little clip at the back which just slides off - just pull to the left. Once this is done, remove the electrical terminals from the valve, and then just pull the valve towards you - it just slips off.

5) Put the new valve in place, attach the electrics, and slip the clip at the back on.

6) Switch the valves back- you will hear a rush of water into the boiler.

7) From here on just continue as if you were re-filling the CH after a flush.

Hope this helps someone in the future - if i've made a mistake or left something out, feel free to comment.
 
I had the same symptoms as aris above and replaced the pressure differential switch which did not solve the problem but was very closely related.

There is a thin copper tube that connects the diverter valve to the pressure differential switch. The actual problem was a build-up of scale/crud at the diverter valve outlet into which the thin copper tube pushes. The outlet only has a small pin-prick hole which was almost completely obscured. A bit of careful scraping & cleaning with cotton-wool buds solved the problem.

I have seen other responses where the thin copper tube itself becomes blocked with crud.
 
thanks aronks for repair copper pipe and both entry points completely blocked.fixed many related faults on this one would not have known were to look cheers and beers.
 

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