Wall hanging toilet not secure, can i fix this myself

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Unfortunately a lot of the fixing kits are specific to the frame or the pan. I would maybe look to reuse them and use large oversized nylock washer at the back and large penny washers on the front to sandwich the old opne properly.

Was it a gerbit frame or just a generic one? If there was a manufacturer then they may be able to supply the corrcet ones.
sadly we dont know the maker of the frame, its generic we believe. I will have a look at larger washers..
Do you think if it went for a large nylon type washer for where the nut meets the toilet porcelain would be OK?
 
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They will fit most pans. Fixing is entirely different to what you have now - the black parts snap into the holes in the pan, the silver parts screw over the threaded studs that are attached to the wall frame, pan goes over them, and it's tightened using the hex key from below, which pushes the end of the screw into the angled section of the silver piece and pulls the pan towards the wall. If the pan is close to the floor, a long hex key can be used to tighten it without having to reach up underneath the pan.

2nd image on that website (with the green/grey colours) shows how the parts go together.

You may need to adjust the length of the studs in the wall, but they just thread into the wall frame.
Length of those and the distance of the silver items from the wall relative to the pan holes is also critical, but instructions are provided so it's just a case of accurate measurement.
 
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Unfortunately a lot of the fixing kits are specific to the frame or the pan. I would maybe look to reuse them and use large oversized nylon washer at the back and large penny washers on the front to sandwich the old opne properly.

Was it a gerbit frame or just a generic one? If there was a manufacturer then they may be able to supply the corrcet ones.

For example, this is the fitting kit for the gerbit

geberit-duofix-set-of-threaded-rods-240.189.00.1-144402-p.jpg

Edited to add pic and correct typo

other than that plastic cover over the rubber sleeve there isnt anything else to protect the toilet from cracking but that mustbe enough. I wonder if what you have in that picture would work as the hole in the toilet which the bolt passes through is quite a bit bigger than the bolt
 

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They will fit most pans. Fixing is entirely different to what you have now - the black parts snap into the holes in the pan, the silver parts screw over the threaded studs that are attached to the wall frame, pan goes over them, and it's tightened using the hex key from below, which pushes the end of the screw into the angled section of the silver piece and pulls the pan towards the wall. If the pan is close to the floor, a long hex key can be used to tighten it without having to reach up underneath the pan.

2nd image on that website (with the green/grey colours) shows how the parts go together.

You may need to adjust the length of the studs in the wall, but they just thread into the wall frame.
Length of those and the distance of the silver items from the wall relative to the pan holes is also critical, but instructions are provided so it's just a case of accurate measurement.

great, the idea of the allen key screw is much better idea than these bolts where there is next to no room to get a tool in there.
probably a silly question but how do i know that bolts in my frame are the same size for that fitting
 
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I have found those click & loc fittings to loosen over time, it's the plastic inserts with the grub screws tightening into the cams that I have found don't seem to stand the test of time, weight dependent. That and you need to get the dimensions spot on as there is no to 'take up' any slack end the cams seem to be quite loose on the rods.

Others may have different experiences of course.

Nothing better than the strong sleeves, nuts and proper washers IMO. I find them much better for weight bearing and piece of mind and I tend to use lock washers and/or nylock nuts
 
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I have found those click & loc fittings to loosen over time, it's the plastic inserts with the grub screws tightening into the cams that I have found don't seem to stand the test of time, weight dependent. That and you need to get the dimensions spot on as there is no to 'take up' any slack end the cams seem to be quite loose on the rods.

Others may have different experiences of course.

Nothing better than the strong sleeves, nuts and proper washers IMO. I find them much better for weight bearing and piece of mind and I tend to use lock washers and/or nylock nuts
I dont mind trying a few things to see if that work, my main issue is getting to the nut underneath undoing it and tightening up.

Ive ordered the one off amazon i can always send that back to them as they are pretty good for things like that.

I have the sleeve and the metal washer , would you suggest something like a large nylon washer, they sell kits on amazon which may give my some chance of matching one that fits
such as this
nylon washers


would nylon be strong enough? stronger than rubber so it would look like this (red) being the washers?



Inked282632698_10160586698290934_1529562564265363876_n_LI.jpg
 
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Is the toilet not open at the bottom to give access to the rods and nuts?

I'm not saying that you shouldn't try the fisher or others makes of that fitting kit, they make many different version of it which suggests to me they can decide on one type that works every time. Even Fisher are on their 2nd version of that fitting. All I can offer is in my experience of using them.

I would use a sleeve to protect and fit tight into the holes of the pan, then nice thick wide nylon washers then a steel washer then the nut.
 
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me and the missus gave it another go today after i filled in the cracks and then painted it, not sure whats wrong with it, we have gone through trying to use so many tools and the only thing thats worked is a head of spanner and no bar on it. just seems a awful design.

we tried washer then the rubber collar then another washer, then the metal washer then the nut, i cant get my hand in there too big, missus has used that spanner head to tighten it and its not wobbling etc and then did a test sit down and wall broke again. its as it needs something else at the bottom to brace the weight of when someone is on there.

going to order the fisher ones and then try to see if they make any difference or make it easier, the access is a problem, really poor design

Also the hole where the rods fit through havent really got any sort of designed recess for the washers, so when offered up they dont sit cleanly on if that makes sense.

open to anymore suggestions, fed up :)
 

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Did you use long reach spanners? The sleeve should hold the rod so any washers used should sit centralised unless the sleeves aren't right.

As suggested though, if the access is that bad and you cant get your hands and tools in properly then the fischer fittings, or similar, may be what you need to use, you should be able to get the allan key into them from below I would think.
 
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Did you use long reach spanners? The sleeve should hold the rod so any washers used should sit centralised unless the sleeves aren't right.

As suggested though, if the access is that bad and you cant get your hands and tools in properly then the fischer fittings, or similar, may be what you need to use, you should be able to get the allan key into them from below I would think.

yeah used long reach and the angle is such it can just about get on the nut but even a movement to the left or right. I've ordered a Short stubby ratchet spanner and also re ordered the fischer fittings to see if they help.


im now starting to think that the lower wall where the bottom of the toilet sits, needs to be braced and perhaps with the hole cut in the back wall its literally a a few cms of plasterboard that the bottom of the toilet sits
 
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l its literally a a few cms of plasterboard that the bottom of the toilet sits
That will fail regardless of any fixings.
The lower edge pushes on the wall with the full weight of the pan and whoever is sitting on it.
2x layers of cement board directly against the steel frame and tiles over would be a typical choice, covering most of the area behind the pan so just the pipes and fixing studs are visible.
Any forces on the pan go directly through the tiles and cement board onto the steel frame, so there can be no movement at all.

Frame, set in by the thickness of 1x cement board:
wall_frame.jpg



2 layers cement board over:
wall_toilet.jpg


Finished:

finished.jpg



If yours is just resting against a bit of plasterboard, that will need to be removed and replaced with something more substantial.
 

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