See the photo, it is a component that controls 6 poll lights. It trips after a short time. I believe that this is a kind of contactor but I never used one, if some one knows/used one of those advice/information would be appreciated
What do you know about this
- Thread starter Albert
- Start date
it is indeed a contactor..
it should not trip at all since it has no overload protection built in, it's just a big switch..
the red and black wires from the white cable are the controlls to it, is there a light sensor or timer upstream of this?
do the lights themselves have built in light sensors?
more info needed..
it should not trip at all since it has no overload protection built in, it's just a big switch..
the red and black wires from the white cable are the controlls to it, is there a light sensor or timer upstream of this?
do the lights themselves have built in light sensors?
more info needed..
Time clock or photocell controlled coil ?
B
breezer
its a contactor, controlled by a photp cell, there is a bird nesting on the photocell which is why it "trips"
Or defecating on it. Photocells should be positioned so that rain washes off any deposits birds may make on them.
Thanks,
Yes there is a light sensor to control the unit.
It sounds like what I thought, interestingly this installation does not have a RCD, I would prefer to remove this and install rcd instead.
What do you think could be the reason to use this component? At the moment the configuration is as follows:
A dedicated supply and meter set for this installation linked to a mini CU.
45A DP isolator in the mini CU with 6A MCB.
There are 2xL from the MCB going 1 to the sensor and the other to the "load-in" side (L1) of the contactor.
The return (S/L) from the sensor goes to the contactor's supply-in (white cable).
The "load-out" (T1) has 2x circuits (2x3 lights per circuit).
I did not mention the neutrals as I am sure that this is clear.
Is there a reason why I should not remove the contactor?
My understanding is that if the sensor is dirty or covered the lights would be on permanently, but this is not a reason for the contactor to trip. I suspect that the rain/snow has something to do with it.
Yes there is a light sensor to control the unit.
It sounds like what I thought, interestingly this installation does not have a RCD, I would prefer to remove this and install rcd instead.
What do you think could be the reason to use this component? At the moment the configuration is as follows:
A dedicated supply and meter set for this installation linked to a mini CU.
45A DP isolator in the mini CU with 6A MCB.
There are 2xL from the MCB going 1 to the sensor and the other to the "load-in" side (L1) of the contactor.
The return (S/L) from the sensor goes to the contactor's supply-in (white cable).
The "load-out" (T1) has 2x circuits (2x3 lights per circuit).
I did not mention the neutrals as I am sure that this is clear.
Is there a reason why I should not remove the contactor?
My understanding is that if the sensor is dirty or covered the lights would be on permanently, but this is not a reason for the contactor to trip. I suspect that the rain/snow has something to do with it.
The photocell could be faulty, or is there a timeclock set wrongly in circuit somewhere?
The contactor should not be removed as it is probably there as the lighting is too greater load for the PEC to switch (possibly allowing for start-up currents) or the fact the lighting load was to be expanded in the future!
The contactor should not be removed as it is probably there as the lighting is too greater load for the PEC to switch (possibly allowing for start-up currents) or the fact the lighting load was to be expanded in the future!
A contactor is generally used to enable a high current load to be controlled by a low current control circuit.
It is therefore quite likely that the photocell contacts cannot handle the load of whatever was to be controlled, hence the contactor.
So you can't remove it unless you can confirm the control circuit is capable of switching the load current directly (which may be the case if, for example, tungsten floods had been replaced with low energy versions).
It is therefore quite likely that the photocell contacts cannot handle the load of whatever was to be controlled, hence the contactor.
So you can't remove it unless you can confirm the control circuit is capable of switching the load current directly (which may be the case if, for example, tungsten floods had been replaced with low energy versions).
Thanks again,
This is what I was looking at because the total load of the 2 circuits is: 11W energy bulbs x3 in each light x6 lights = 198W.
In my opinion adding a second 6A MCB and separating the 2 circuits will have many benefits, (especially when it is not a costly change).
This light fittings do not use halogen bulbs, the max. per bulb would be 100W. In the worst case if they used to use this kind of bulbs the max load would be 900W per circuit, which is not too high, the cable is 1.5 SWA and can be used with 10A MCB. It seems that you are probably right about the historical reasons, as they connected the 2 circuits to the same MCB and sensor they had to deal with 1800W which in any case I would not use with 6A MCB.
I used before this type of light sensor, there was no indication of limitation to the load (of course the normal limitations apply i.e frequency, voltage and max load).
This is what I was looking at because the total load of the 2 circuits is: 11W energy bulbs x3 in each light x6 lights = 198W.
In my opinion adding a second 6A MCB and separating the 2 circuits will have many benefits, (especially when it is not a costly change).
This light fittings do not use halogen bulbs, the max. per bulb would be 100W. In the worst case if they used to use this kind of bulbs the max load would be 900W per circuit, which is not too high, the cable is 1.5 SWA and can be used with 10A MCB. It seems that you are probably right about the historical reasons, as they connected the 2 circuits to the same MCB and sensor they had to deal with 1800W which in any case I would not use with 6A MCB.
I used before this type of light sensor, there was no indication of limitation to the load (of course the normal limitations apply i.e frequency, voltage and max load).
err, that right there is an indication of limitation to the load...
when you say "trip" what exactly happens?
the mcb itself trips or the contactof just switches off?
if the latter then it's a duff photocell you've got.. either that or you've recently moved a light, cut some bushes down etc that means the light from the lamposts now falls on it's own photocell..
ColJack";p="1150411 said:Albert";p="1150334 said:You know what I mean! even a standard light switch or a DP isolators have a max load, I meant that it was something like 13A or 16A.err, that right there is an indication of limitation to the load...
The power to the contactor turns off, it is possible that the sensor is turning it off because it is day light but I by-passed the sensor and the MCB tripped.
It is the contactor when it is connected but when it is not, see above.
I did not touch a thing (every body says so), I was called to find a fault on an existing installation. I never move or change things before I know and understand the configuration.
how did you bypass the sensor?
red wire to red wire? ( L1 to A1 on the contactor? )
in daylight, the light sensor will opperate for a period of time when first switched on, this is normal..
you need to cover the light sensor with a small box or a cloth that is heavy and blocks the light ( dishcloths don't work.. )
when I said "you've moved..." etc, I meant you or the person who's installation it is, or even a neighbour cutting down trees can cause it.. something may have changed allowing more light to get at the sensor from street lights or other lights etc..
red wire to red wire? ( L1 to A1 on the contactor? )
in daylight, the light sensor will opperate for a period of time when first switched on, this is normal..
you need to cover the light sensor with a small box or a cloth that is heavy and blocks the light ( dishcloths don't work..
)when I said "you've moved..." etc, I meant you or the person who's installation it is, or even a neighbour cutting down trees can cause it.. something may have changed allowing more light to get at the sensor from street lights or other lights etc..
Have you disconnected each of the outgoing cables and then allowed tested the sensor, if the mcb is tripping then maybe there's a fault with one of the lights?
I took the load site of the contactor, or if you wish the cable going to the lights and connected it directly to the MCB.
Thanks for the tip about the light sensor, as I said i used them in the past. What I was not sure was the contactor because I never used them in the past. I must say that thanks to your help I will be more confident dealing with this type of equipment.
Thanks for the tip about the light sensor, as I said i used them in the past. What I was not sure was the contactor because I never used them in the past. I must say that thanks to your help I will be more confident dealing with this type of equipment.
you could also just use a pen ( plastic ) and push the contactor down... does the same thing with no chance of puting the wires in the wrong place..
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