What to use to clean saw blades etc ?

Discussion in 'Tools and Materials' started by Mattatooi, 10 Feb 2015.

  1. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Can anyone recommend any solution to clean circular saw blades and drill bits etc. DOing some googling some people recommend Simple Green, but I can't seem to find this in the UK. Another one was Pitch & Resin Remover, but again its American and nothing like it in UK. Surely there is something suitable to use here in the UK.

    Thanks
     
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  3. Belboz

    Belboz

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    Toothbrush and elbow grease!

    TBH, I don't know of any UK products save for the one Axminster does but it is expensive and suffers from very mixed reviews.

    However, perhaps you can buy SIMPLE GREEN in the UK from their UK distributor?

    I don't know if it is still available but the website is still up!

    See below:

    http://www.encleansols.co.uk/index.php/domestic-products
     
  4. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    You can try toluene or xylene......toluene is available as an aerosol carburettor cleaner, and xylene is the solvent for Hammerite paint.
    Both excellent solvents in their own way!
    John :)
     
  5. Norcon

    Norcon

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    I clean the blades in my table saw running full speed with a sorby sand master.
    Makes them like new in a few seconds.
     
  6. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Thanks for replies. Was kind of looking for something that I could buy locally rather than go with the online route.

    I should have said I would rather use something that is a bit more "healthier", so no harmful fumes etc. I saw this - http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/how-to-clean-blades-bits/ - and thought there had to be something out there similar. I like the idea of being able to just reuse it.
     
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  8. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Forgive me for saying this, but stuff and nonesense! Both Trend and CMT sell a blade cleaner in the UK - via fairly local sources (those lnks aren't the cheapest - more designed to prove my point). The traditional method was to soak blades in meths or turps (with a cover over the top to reduce evaporation), but these have fallen out of favour in recent times because of fire risk, etc. I wouldn't even go near the higher distillates such as petroleum, toluene or xylene because they have health problems associated with their use, and their flash points are really low, so as much an explosion risk as a fire risk in a confined space. There are commercial solutions, often referred to as "aqueous solutions", but so far I've only come across places which sell them in 4 x 5ltr boxes. Another possible source, if you have one in the vicinity, is a saw doctor service because they have to have some way to clean blades (and might sell you some of their stock). They are a lot less common now than at one time, unfortunately.

    Norcon, are you extracting the wee again?
     
  9. ladylola

    ladylola

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    Maybe he is but then again maybe he isn't. I remember being told at college how common it was at one time to clean the blade while it was moving , even some of the lecturers had done it at some point but it was generally classed as a dangerous way to do the job.
     
  10. timbo46

    timbo46

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    Oven cleaner spray works well and is usually to be found in a kitchen cupboard in my experience :D
     
  11. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Provided you don't mind the Teflon coating or protective lacquer on your blades being stripped off then yes, maybe (and in any case I like to be able to see the words on my blade which tell me the manufacturer, tooth count and tooth form). I suppose I should respond, “Who cares. There are many better things to use.....” I agree it is very fast, should work well and is readily available but it is recognized as being quite dangerous (rubber gloves and eye protection are a must - not good for the lungs, either). If I were to use it I'd limit the blade exposure to 10 minutes or so - strong alkalis corrode copper, zinc, tin and cadmium (all of which are used in brazing compounds), so you might be weakening the braze that holds the carbide in place in the longer term by prolonged soaking
     
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