Which Car?

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The Honda has an isolation switch, but it kills all the windows! :rolleyes:
Just been out to see if mine's the same - it is! Very odd - but not having kids it's not an issue, never touched that switch before!
 
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Just about to ring a auto electrician to see if it can be altered....

EDIT:


:cry:

No can do...the windows are controlled via BUS & an ECU, so it's not possible to alter the wiring to suit.

Off to phone Honda now!!
 
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Can the wire that controls that particular function not just be snipped at the two front doors, so only the rears activate when the switch is pressed? it will probably throw up a fault code though.

Seems a bit of an oversight on Hondas part though, I don't know why you would possibly want to lock ALL the windows at once.
 
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Just spoken to Fish Bros in Swindon. You can't (officially) alter the wiring at all.

My auto electrician is loathe to mess with it as it is BUS wiring controlled by an ECU.

So, it seems we're stuck with it.

Maybe some kind of cover for the rear switches, then?
 
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Sounds to me like your auto electrician is scared of ECU's :LOL:

If it is as you say "BUS" controlled, I am sure it can be changed, however finding an autoelectrician with the apropriate programming knowledge, not so easy. I think its a Bosch ECU?

Just unplug the cable the goes to the switch? or when they wind the window down wind it up from the front trapping thier arm between the frame and the glass, it fecking hurts and it taught me not to arse around with the window switches in my dads car. :LOL:
 
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I'm not an automotive electrician. However I am qualified in UML, which is the language used by Honda to design and prototype the logic in their automotive electrical systems.

Assuming that Honda use push-to-make switches (not guaranteed), the easiest and most-effective option would be to disconnect the rear switches.

The window motors will be actuated (i.e. told to go up and down) depending on messages received over the bus. If there is no input, then they remain where they are. By disconnecting the rear switches you will be removing that particular input, however the system will not realise the switches have been disconnected.

So, as a first step I'd try disconnecting (AND INSULATING) the spades from the bottom of the rear-door window switches. If that works, you could wire in a remote switch to the front to switch them in and out as required.
 
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Thanks for that idea.

We have considered disconnecting the rear windows, but will try to retrain the kids first....

Our next task is to investigate having window closers fitted & linked to the remote locking.
 
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Thanks for that idea.

We have considered disconnecting the rear windows, but will try to retrain the kids first....

Our next task is to investigate having window closers fitted & linked to the remote locking.

I dont know about retraining, have you considered restaining?
 
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been reading this, bought er-indoors a crv vtec ex couple of months back.Gonna have to check the windows now, sounds stupid if it switchs them all off.
Only had it a week and it broke down!
Bloody great lorry reversed into last week and stoved in the tailgate. Insurance reckon they'll supply freelander or range rover as courtesy car suppose she'll want of them now.
 
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Ninebob was right....

5 and a bit years on and nearly 80K later and, apart from regular W-a-T items, nothing extraordinary has gone wrong.

Tyres, pads, blades.

One broken window stove it by druggie looking for SatNav (didn't find anything).

And the servicing was all done by Honda as part of their (hugely discounted) 5 year fixed price plan, paid for when we bought the car.

Cracking motor!
 
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