Wooden kitchen worktop questions

[numpty with a crowbar]

Morning folks,
me & my better half are finishing off the kitchen, and the time has come to treat the nice wooden worktops. We were originally thinking of oiling them, but since that's got to be done every 6 months or so (and we're lazy) we're looking at varnishing them instead.... But - the better half has mentioned "heat resistant" varnish that won't knacker if we put hot objects (like mugs?) on the worktops - is there such a thing or will any decent clear varnish do the job?? I've never heard of it but just want to check coz if I don't I'll get wrong.... And any recomendations for the best type of long lasting clear varnish / laquer that won't make the worktops look all shiny and rubbish??

As a second thing - the moulding type affairs that you get to joint between the worktop and the tiled splashback - what the hell are they called? And where can I find them as I've trawled a couple of shops, and had a search about on screwfix etc and can't find anything

 

[sidecar_jon]

Re oil vs varnish.... something ive learnt on boats is that, varnish takes and age to dry, and everything that fly s crawls and dust etc settles on it making it look pants.... id oil it, its easy to do, things don't stick to it and it wont "lift" like varnish will eventually.

 

[Scrit]

Why is it that some people want a natural material - then decide they want it to act like it was plastic?

.... the time has come to treat the nice wooden worktops. We were originally thinking of oiling them, but since that's got to be done every 6 months or so (and we're lazy) we're looking at varnishing them instead.... But - the better half has mentioned "heat resistant" varnish that won't knacker if we put hot objects (like mugs?) on the worktops - is there such a thing or will any decent clear varnish do the job??

All varnish will withstand a certain amount of heat, but on a worktop it looks plasticky and unnatural. It will also crack and craze with time, so you'll have to strip it and refinish periodically (3 to 4 years) and it won't stand having pots, pans, etc dropped on it as it gets more and more brittle with age. If it starts to craze and water gets in the worktop may be marked permanently. Bar-top lacquers are very durable, but they all look plasticky (think about your local pub and you'll understand what I mean) - the requirement to have a wipe-clean surface means that you need a smooth surface, and smooth = glossy. You can finish wood with something like a catalysed lacquer to achieve the desired result of durability and not looking too unnatural, however, catalysed lacquers need to be sprayed in a booth so you'd have to fit the tops, then take them out and down to a sprayer (one who does wood NOT a numb-headed car sprayer), then refit them! That would be very permament, though and probably never require refinishing. But what a faff!

The only other possibility is to utilise a floor finish such as Dulux Diamond Glaze water-based lacquer which will give you a hard-wearing clear surface and is available in a satin finish. It should have a life of several years before a recoat was necessary. Make sure that you coat the top, the edges AND the underside (which is why I always finish wooden tops between the fit to size and final installation).

Oil finishing is used on worktops because it looks good and works well and over time will bring out the natural beauty of the wood, especially on species such as iroko and teak. A lacquer finish will always be a bit more "dead" in comparison. Oil finishes do come at the cost of an overhead (1 to 2 hours or so every 3 to 6 months) - so if you want a maintainance-free worktop then buy a Formica worktop - or get a local joiner to put in a wooden top and come and service it twice a year.

By implication you have already installed this top. If you have already oiled it, or it was supplied pre-oiled, you will have to strip the worktop before attempting any refinishing as no lacquer or varnish is guaranteed to go onto an oiled surface and adhere. I have to wonder why you chose what is known to be a high(er) maintainance worktop type but didn't sort out how you were going to finish it first. If it has already been installed have the edges been waterproofed? If not any water ingress through the hidden edges such as the scribed edges against the walls will also ruin the appearance of your worktops over time regardless of what you put on the top surface.

Scrit

 

[hermes]

My mum has a hardwood (iroko) worktop which I fitted for her about 12 years ago. I finished it with polyurethane varnish over a single coat of oil as she didn't want the maintenance. I don't think it has ever been re-finished and it still looks almost as good as new. In our house we have oak worktops. Most of it is oiled but in one high-use area I used polyurethane varnish. It doesn't look quite as warm or natural but it's a lot harder wearing.

 

[soaringjock]

hi,might be too late,if not check out rustins plastic coating.